Dovetail Delicatessen gives Drift team roots in best way: Twyla Campbell

What do you call a food truck when it goes brick and mortar?

For Edmonton AM food critic Twyla Campbell, the answer is "delicious."

Putting down roots

Dovetail Deli only opened a few weeks ago, but has already gained quite a reputation due to the culinary minds behind it — better known as Nevin and Kara Fenske, the creators and cooks behind Edmonton's popular Drift food truck.

"They've won the best food truck locally category, they've won top trucks across Canada, they've been written up in the National Post and WestJet magazine and Sharp Magazine — so lots of local support here," says Campbell.

Now, the duo have put down roots, so to speak, with their new joint — a combination restaurant and delicatessen located on 124th Street.

The menu

Like Drift, Dovetail serves up plenty of sandwiches, but also much more, says Campbell.

"Every day they feature a hot sandwich, then they also have an egg sandwich and another meat sandwich in the cooler," says Campbell.

Each of those sandwiches are served up on the same buns customers have fallen for at Drift — made at the family-run Vienne Bakery and possessing just the right amount of chewiness.

Dovetail also serves up a weekly soup option, and two salad options (one grain and one grain-free).

And then there are the goodies: samosas, veggie tarts, hummus, olive tapenade, a country-style pork pate served with crostini and the pair's legendary homemade potato chips.

"They have really good variety, and it's great for people who want to grab and go, but also for people who want to sit in," Campbell says.

A handful of tables are available for customers who want to eat in, and Dovetail also offers a small wine, beer and cider list.

The verdict

Campbell reviewed two of Dovetail's sandwiches on Edmonton AM:

• Cold corned beef sandwich: Built with home-brined beef of their own recipe, and served with homemade mustard — Campbell says this sandwich would be perfect with a pint of beer.
• Slow-roasted pork shoulder sandwich: Owner Nevin himself carved the meat for her sandwich, says Campbell, topping it with pickled red onions and a homemade chimichurri sauce made with  parsley, garlic, olive oil, oregano, and vinegar. Of the sauce:  "It was fragrant, it was robust — a perfect accompaniment to that meat," she says. "I really envy people who can roast meat like this."

Campbell also tasted the tomato soup, made with chicken stock, onion, garlic coriander, juniper berry, and Italian tomatoes.

"The flavours are subtle, but it tastes like homemade soup — like tomatoes fresh off the farm," Campbell says.

And then there are the samosas. "You have to try the samosas — they are spectacular," raves Campbell.

The samosas start with a perfect pastry, said Campbell, wrapped around potato, peas, garlic, ginger and green chiles and served with a coriander chutney.

In both the soup and samosas, diners can taste the couple's respective travel experiences and family heritage, she says.

The rest

Campbell had exactly one negative thing to say about Dovetail: that its existence will now mean the Drift food truck itself won't be out and about in the city quite as often.

The Fenskes do plan on bringing the truck out each week to the 124th Street Grand Market, and also hope to make an appearance at least once a week downtown near 107th Street. It will also be on hand at most of the summer festivals, she said.

But between those times, Fenske-fans will need to visit Dovetail for a delicious treat.

"Truly, food made with love by lovely people. I highly recommend you go," says Campbell.

The restaurant-deli, located at 10721 — 124th Street, is open weekdays from 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

You can hear Twyla's reviews on Edmonton AM every second Friday. You can also see more of her reviews on her blog, Weird Wild and Wonderful, and can follow her on Twitter at @wanderwoman10.