Edmonton·REVIEW

Browns Social House won't rock the boat, but that's ok, says Twyla Campbell

The minds behind The Cactus Club and Earls have opened a new chain restaurant in Edmonton, and reviewer Twyla Campbell has the scoop.

'You know what you're going to get,' Edmonton AM reviewer says of new Edmonton chain restaurant

“A minuscule piece of tired, dry halibut in there but tons of shredded cabbage on top," Edmonton AM food reviewer Twyla Campbell said of the fish tacos at Browns Social House. (Twyla Campbell)

Browns Social House, providing upscale dining in a pub-like atmosphere, has just opened its doors in Windermere in Edmonton's southwest. 

The restaurant is one of 35 locations opened across the country since 2004, and the first in Edmonton.

The man behind Browns is restaurateur, Scott Morison, who opened the original Cactus Club in 1988 with Richard Jaffrey and silent partners Leroy "Bus" Earl Fuller and Stan Fuller of Earls.

Since then, "It's caught on like wildfire," says Edmonton AM reviewer Twyla Campbell.

The food

In broad strokes, Campbell said the menu is similar to Earls with salads, flatbreads, burgers and rice bowls.

"There's a couple of healthy options, but the starters are basically all food that is easy to order in mass quantities, easy to prepare and easy to service — so think dry ribs, calamari, hot wings, ginger beef — those foods that are high in salt and perfect to pair with the beer."

Campbell ordered three starters:

  • Dry ribs: "You could basically be anywhere and have these — it's nothing that differentiates them from any other establishment."
  • Tempura wrap (tempura shrimp wrapped in rice and nori with a sriracha mayonnaise): "I think it will pacify sushi lovers but it won't wow them."
  • Tuna stack (Diced raw tuna, avocado, onion and tomato, served on sushi rice with garlic bread): "That toasted garlic bread had some really nice charred grill marks on it and the flavours worked really well together — it was surprisingly satisfying."

And for the main course, she also tried three dishes:

  • Crispy, spicy chicken burger: "This was decent, it wouldn't make me dream about it … in fact, that pretty much sums up everything."
  • Halibut taco: "A minuscule piece of tired, dry halibut in there but tons of shredded cabbage on top." Campbell also took issue with the $1 she was charged for a tablespoon-sized scoop of guacamole.
  • Flatbread pizza with dry, aged pepperoni: Decent, but salty.

The service

Where Campbell was lukewarm on the food, she praised the joint for its friendly vibe, good service and knowledgeable servers.

The final verdict

"They're just keying in on that neighbourhood pub — that place of familiarity … where you always know what you're going to get," Campbell said.

"The food will not rock any boat you put it on, but the prices (both food and drinks) are affordable, the staff are friendly … the setting is really comfortable, it's trendy, it's really pleasing to the eye."

You can hear Twyla's reviews on Edmonton AM every second Friday. You can also see more of her reviews on her blog, Weird Wild and Wonderful, and can follow her on Twitter at @wanderwoman10.