What to cook in April: Easy dishes made with early spring's pleasant, peppery produce
Conjure the feeling of springtime awakening with food that lets fresh ingredients speak for themselves
The month of April always inspires nostalgia for me. I am reminded of watching my mom plant her first herbs and flowers of the season, walking through the farmers market in my hometown and spending time in the sun with the ones I love. It's been almost two years since I've seen my family. They live in the States, geographically not too far from Montreal where I live, but everything feels farther away these days.
Since I haven't been able to see them, I rely on memories; I've held onto them especially tightly this year. One dear to me is of a day in late April 2019 when I was visiting my parents in my small New Jersey hometown. I remember walking outside the apartment building where they live. It was that time of year when daylight began to linger for longer and the sun shined brighter. Everything just seemed more alive. A light breeze picked up the scent of fresh flowers and I was momentarily stunned by the brightness of the sun in my eyes.
I was pulled out of my trance by my mom calling my name, "Ariel!". She's French-Canadian so she pronounces my name: "Ad-ee-ell" or "Ah-r-ee-ehl ", or sometimes, "Sage"...that's my sister's name and coincidentally one of the perennial herbs she was tending to too, alongside mint, thyme, oregano and chives. She handed me a mint leaf to chew on and I kissed her on the cheek.
With the taste of garden mint on my palette, I strolled down the street to the farmers market. The whole town was there — the market was a true highlight of the season, and my father, manager of the market, a real hometown hero. He greeted me as I arrived; "Go visit Matt, he has the zestiest radishes! And Doug, his rhubarb pie is the sweetest this time of year. Oh wait, before you go, try this leaf of arugula... mustardy, peppery and spicy, you'll never taste better." I took a bite. I had an awakening — this was what arugula is supposed to taste like!
I took the tour, trying everything I saw, spoiled by the vendors: "No charge, you're Harold's daughter." I said hi to some old friends and hid behind stands of lettuce heads to avoid others. At the end of the day, I walked home with a bag full of asparagus, peas, mushrooms and ricotta, grabbed some mint and chives from my mom's garden and went inside to make a lazy, late lunch. On the menu: a flaky spring tart. I'd have it ready by the time my dad returned from the market and my mom from gardening. I enlisted my older sister as my sous chef, but like always, she ended up as the taste tester instead. We were in no rush. We indulged in the process of preparing the meal, and spending peaceful time together.
I look forward to conjuring this feeling of springtime ease and pleasure with simple dishes that let fresh ingredients speak for themselves, like simple tarts, salads, and even sandwiches. Spring produce is the star of the following recipes, which I hope can inspire you to take advantage of the best of this season too.
Socca with Walnut Pesto and Arugula
Super Greens Cannelloni with Creamy Ricotta & Basil Sauce
Asparagus, Prosciutto and Parmesan Turnovers
Fiddlehead and Caramelized Leek Ricotta Tart
Sfoglia Verde Agli Spinaci | Spinach Dough
Strawberry Rhubarb Custard Tart
Ariel Lefkowitz is a Canadian/American recipe developer, chef, and food writer and stylist based in Montreal. Ariel believes that cooking is a critical part of self-care that should be joyful, sustainable and accessible. Follow her at @cookinginthecut.
