Rebekah Peppler's (Modern) Provençal Cheese Plate: Simple yet stunning fruit recipes to pair with cheese

When looking through Rebekah Peppler's cookbook, Le Sud, during the summer, icy drinks and picnic salads caught our eye. But so did her cheese plate with its rich-sounding fruit recipes; it had us thinking ahead to dinner parties on dark winter evenings. Beyond the recipes, we savoured her romantic essay that precedes them, which speaks to relaxing at the table with dining companions. So we're sharing that essay and three of her recipes with you, hoping they'll inspire you the next time you're entertaining.

The (Modern) Provençal Cheese Plate

By Rebekah Peppler

"Entre la poire et le fromage" is a French expression that translates directly to "between the pear and the cheese."

Colloquially it can mean "toward the end of the meal," that magic, convivial moment when everyone around the table is relaxed and (nearly) sated and conversation and laughter flow freely. In French "entre la poire et le fromage" is also used more generally to illustrate a free moment or moment of relaxation between any two events or situations.

You might think the order should be reversed. In modern France, it's common to eat cheese first, followed by a sweet pear or a sweet slice of gâteau. But the idiom dates back to a time when the fruit was eaten first, and the cheese last — hence the placement of the (Modern) Provençal Cheese Plate in this book.

Regardless of when cheese is set on the table — before dessert, after dessert, as dessert — I hope it finds you in a moment of relaxation.

The cheese plate can simply be that: one perfectly ripe cheese, set on the plate. This minimalist presentation is best offered when a larger dessert is waiting in the wings.

If the cheese plate is the event, however, one must follow one's star on the cheese plate. It's simply the only way! In Provence, goat cheese reigns. Sold in various stages of ripeness, from mild and fresh to deeply aged; shaped in triangles, squares, thick and thin rounds, or logs; dusted with herbs or spices or ash or flowers; wrapped in chestnut or grape leaves. Start there, shooting for a variety in shape and texture (and, if you like, milk type). Then add to it.

Maybe it's a smashed ripe persimmon, candied oranges, a handful of very good and nicely toasted nuts, a slick slice of honeycomb, that jar of very good jam you're keeping in the cupboard for a special occasion. Maybe it's something homemade: Pâte de Coings with Hazelnuts, Abricots au Vinaigre, Roasted Grapes (recipes follow). The point here is that eating very good cheese is not just for your aunt with good taste.

Pâte de Coings (Quince Paste) with Hazelnuts

• ¼ cup (30 g) whole hazelnuts, toasted
• 6 oz (170 g) quince paste

Finely chop the hazelnuts and place them in a shallow bowl. Cut the quince paste into ½-inch (12 mm) cubes and add to the bowl a few at a time, tossing them gently and pressing slightly to adhere. Use immediately or store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Abricots au Vinaigre

• 4 apricots
• ⅓ cup (80 ml) sherry or red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp honey (preferably lavender)
• 10 whole black or pink peppercorns
• One 3-inch (7.5 cm) piece lemon peel
• 1 bay leaf
• Fine sea salt

Quarter the apricots lengthwise, discarding the pits. Add to a heatproof bowl and set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, add the sherry, honey, peppercorns, lemon peel, bay leaf and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the honey. Remove from the heat and pour the hot mixture directly over the apricots. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours. Use immediately or store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Roasted Grapes

• 2 lb. (910 g) grapes
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1½ tbsp granulated sugar
• Flaky sea salt
• Half a lemon (or lime or clementine or mandarin or grapefruit or orange, any citrus really)

Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C). Gently wash and dry the grapes, leaving them in bunches on the stems. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet or baking dish and drizzle with the olive oil. Sprinkle with the sugar and season lightly with salt. Roast until the grapes start to caramelize, about 30 minutes. Squeeze the citrus over the top and set aside to cool. Serve roasted grapes the same day you've roasted them.

Excerpted from Le Sud: Recipes from Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur by Rebekah Peppler, © 2024. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © Joanne Pai.