Guyanese Pepperpot: A savoury, spicy stew chef Devan Rajkumar says is 'magical'

Pepperpot, the national dish of Guyana, was one of chef Devan Rajkumar’s favourite foods growing up. “It was a magical dish in my eyes and seemed like a mystery to me,” he told CBC Life. "The flavour and colour was so unique, and I didn't know what made it this way.” 

Solving this mystery would prove to be a challenge though, since he only got a chance to enjoy pepperpot, a typical Christmas dish, once a year. It wasn't until Chef Dev set his mind to learning to cook it years later that he "unlocked the code": cassareep, a thick sauce made from cassava root. 

Rajkumar was overjoyed and couldn't stop making it. But his enthusiasm wasn't limited to traditional pepperpot — he’s since experimented with pepperpot ramen, pepperpot smash burgers, pepperpot tacos and more. "One of the reasons I do this is to present the dish in a common way that will connect younger Guyanese and West Indians to the culture while bringing awareness to the world."

Here’s his traditional version for you to try from his new cookbook, Mad Love: Big Flavors Made to Share, from South Asia to the West Indies. “Everyone should try [pepperpot] at least once to taste how special it truly is,” said Rajkumar. 

Pepperpot

By Devan Rajkumar

Guyana’s national dish takes pride of place in my heart — after all, pepperpot is a treasured expression of my community, my heritage and my family, and something that I have enjoyed eating my entire life. I have fond memories of our Christmas trips to Guyana and taking in the enticing aromas of cassareep, cinnamon, cloves and orange peel in the air.

A good pepperpot starts with a high-quality cassareep. Once cooked, the dish will rest overnight for the flavours to mingle. (Trust me, it will taste infinitely better.) Prepare it in advance, serve it with plait bread and there you have it, my friends — Guyana on a plate.

Note: Wiri Wiri chili peppers can be substituted with half the amount of Scotch bonnet or habanero chili peppers.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 3 lbs beef, lamb, goat or mutton chunks, washed
• 2 lbs oxtail
• 2 onions, chopped
• 7 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp chopped ginger
• 5 sprigs thyme
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 2 (3-inch) dried orange peels
• 2 tbsp salt
• ⅔ cup brown sugar
• 1 tsp whole cloves
• 2–3 Wiri Wiri chili peppers, to taste (see Note)
• 1 cup cassareep
• Plait bread to serve

Preparation

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add meat (in batches if necessary) and sear for 7–10 minutes, until brown on all sides. Transfer to a plate. Add oxtail and brown for 7–10 minutes. Transfer to the same plate.

To the pan, add onion, thyme, cinnamon, orange peels, salt, brown sugar and cloves and Wiri Wiri chili peppers. Sauté for 7–8 minutes, until onion is golden brown. Pour in 1 cup hot water, scraping the bottom of the pan to remove all the brown bits known as fond. (Don’t neglect this step! It’ll add flavour to the dish.)

Add the seared meat and oxtail back to the pan. Pour in cassareep and sauté for 4–5 minutes. Pour in 5 cups hot water and bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and cover.

Simmer for 3–4 hours, until meat is tender. Set aside to rest overnight at room temperature.

As the cassareep helps to preserve the meat, the pepperpot can be kept at room temperature and reheated once a day for up to a week. Simply bring it to a boil until it’s warmed through. (Alternatively, it can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.) Serve with plait bread.

Serves 4–6

Excerpted from Mad Love: Big Flavors Made to Share, from South Asia to the West Indies by Devan Rajkumar. Photography by Suech and Beck. Copyright © 2023 by Devan Rajkumar. Excerpted with permission from Figure 1 Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.