Fast-growing Williamsburg in Kitchener is a haven of cultural foods: Andrew Coppolino

In the 1840s, the hamlet of Williamsburg had a sawmill drawing water for power from Strasburg Creek, and by 1864 a one-room schoolhouse had been built on Bleams Road in what is now southwest Kitchener.

Much of the history of the small village, named for German immigrant Anthony Wilhelm, is lost, but in 2009 a red brick building, currently housing the Williamsburg Community Centre, was erected replete with a town clock in Roman numerals and cupola with a weather vane, re-presented the hamlet.

Today, Williamsburg Town Centre is home to about 50 businesses and 15 restaurants.

The town clock, traditionally a symbol of community marking a gathering point for village residents, sits above, suitably enough, Malt and Barley Public House, itself a gathering place.

Soccer and snacks

On weekends, the pub and sports bar is packed with customers, especially when the Liverpool Football Club is playing.

But diehard soccer fans aren't the only patrons. In a back room, you might see a group playing cards and grabbing a bite and a sip during the weekdays — that might be a Reuben sandwich with house-cured corned beef or a Halifax beef donair with its unique sauce traditionally sweetened with condensed milk.

At the other end of the block – cheering on Portuguese soccer teams – Lisboa Restaurant makes its claim to fame with chicken barbecued over an open charcoal flame and served with spicy hot piri piri sauce.

Pizza with a twist

Along an adjacent block of businesses is one example of how the region's demographics have evolved to see more new Canadians of Indian heritage which, in turn, has meant an evolution in pizza.

A U.S. chain, Chicago Pizza Twist adds ingredients from Indian cooking that change the flavour profile of one of the world's most iconic foods.

"The twist is basically the different flavours of sauce we use to make our pizzas. We have a mango-flavoured pizza with habanero, so it is spicy and sweet with both flavours mixed together. It's one of the favourites," says manager Manjot Kaur.

They also currently have northern Indian "achari" pizza that has been a top seller, according to Kaur.

Middle East flavours of shawarma and kebabs

A few doors down, with its enormous model of a shawarma skewer in the front window, Shawarma Star has been in business since 2017 and has racked up dozens and dozens of multi-star Google reviews, and that is due, at least in part, to owner Ammar Al-kufashi's focus on customer service.

If you've ordered a meal, or are trying to make up your mind, Al-kufashi will give you a sample of falafel to tide you over.

"We want to make sure customers are happy. We want them to be regulars. The shawarma marinade and spices, lemon, orange and fresh garlic. We take care of every single item including how we shave the chicken [on the skewer]," Al-kufashi says.

He describes the shawarma style as something between his Iraqi heritage and Lebanese. If you ask him to make one of his favourite versions he might add a few crisp French fries to the wrap.

The vertical skewer of chicken rotating and roasting on the day I visited weighs about 20 kg On weekends it could have nearly 40 kg stacked.

Al-kufashi says it's usually devoured in a single day.

Across the street a few metres is a southwestern Turkish port city on the Mediterranean, well, at least in the form of Antalya Restaurant, specializing in kebabs, doners and pides.

"This is like a Turkish fusion cuisine, but we cook all the meat on charcoal to get all the flavours and smokiness. Our seasonings come from Turkey and the most important thing is the Turkish chili pepper, which is not too sweet and not too spicy. Somewhere in the middle," says owner Hasib Rasuli.

A range of choices defines the food offerings at Williamsburg Town Centre, but it seems a sense of community does too, according to Al-kufashi.

"This neighbourhood is very friendly," he says. "It's multicultural, and we have so many different people. They are good people."

Andrew's goodbye

And with this column, I say that's a wrap for me!

After 10 years as CBC-KW's food columnist, I'm stepping down, moving from Waterloo region and heading to Ottawa Valley to be closer to family.

Leaving my Friday morning radio family at the downtown Kitchener CBC station was a difficult decision, to be sure.

Working alongside Joe Pavia, Josette Lafleur and Carmen Groleau in studio and talking about food and food issues with The Morning Edition's host Craig Norris for something approaching 500 segments has been, I can honestly say, the highlight of my 20 years writing and talking about food in Waterloo region.

Of course, experiencing Craig's trademark sense of humour and quick wit – both on and off air – has been just a plain ol' bunch of fun.

Each Saturday morning, a version of our Friday food talks have been posted here as a CBC-KW web column: it has been a sincere pleasure to be able to share those stories with CBC listeners and readers over the decade.

In fact, the stories of the people in our communities are what make radio great.

It's what I have most enjoyed during my tenure here. Aside from eating the delicious foods from the growing restaurant diversity of our region, I have loved the opportunity to share the stories of the chefs, cooks, bakers, waitstaff, bartenders, farmers, restaurant owners and many other members of our food community.

That, simply, has been an honour for me.

As I take my leave, I will quote the ad-libbed line uttered by Peter Clemenza, the capo in The Godfather: "Leave the gun. Take the cannoli." Amid the violence of the 1972 movie, it is food that puts the focus on family and friends.

And that is very important.