Twyla Campbell: Ikki Izakaya's Japanese snacks could use some work

A new Japanese restaurant in Edmonton hopes to become a go-to place for snacks, small plates and drinks, but Edmonton AM food reviewer says it still has a ways to go.

Ikki Izakaya, or Ikki for short, is the second and smaller Izakaya joint (think Japanese pub) to open in Edmonton, setting up shop in the Illuminada Building on 119th Street and Jasper Avenue. 

The spot has tables for 18, with an additional 10 seats available at the bar — and the relatively small size is mirrored by a small menu of about 20 items, Campbell says. 

Twyla's table

Between Campbell and her companions, the group ordered nearly everything off the menu — with mixed results.

Worth your while:

• Tuna tartare: Minced tuna with avocado and apple, served with thin spring roll chips. "All around, a really solid choice," especially given its $10 price tag, says Campbell.
• Beef Tataki: Six slices of rare beef topped with lightly pickled onions in a citrus ponzu sauce. Campbell would have liked a little more zip in the sauce, but says "some will appreciate (this) … overall, a satisfying dish."
• Spicy chicken wings: Six baked wings coated with a honey sriracha sauce and served with a side of spicy mustard. "It was really nice," says Campbell.
• Takoyaki: Campbell likened these deep fried octopus dumplings topped with "always fun" bonita flakes to arancini.

Room for improvement:

• Takowasabi: Wasabi-marinated octopus with a chewy texture. "It has this slimy finish to it, which was really weird," says Campbell. "None of us were really a fan of that dish"
• Edamame: The steamed soy beans came coated in an overpowering garlic and soy sauce and were soggy, says Campbell.
• Spring rolls: "The roll is actually 90 per cent lettuce with one small piece of shrimp in there," Campbell says. However, she was a fan of the accompanying dipping sauce. 
• Sushi: The only sushi available was in roll, or maki, form, and came heavily sauced so the natural flavours were masked. The rice was also over-cooked, says Campbell. "They do need to improve these rolls."

Campbell also ordered the Motsuni stew, which is an authentic Izakaya dish traditionally served in Japan. This "really interesting" stew comes with slow cooked pork intestines in a nice broth, but Campbell says she was thrown by the meat. "Visually and texturally, it was a bit strange."

The drink

"There's a really good selection of sake," says Campbell, who ordered a flight of three sakes for $10. 

For those who don't like sake, there's also a list of shochu and Japanese beer available.

Verdict

While the service was "delightful" and the drinks on point, Campbell cautions "the food really does need some quick attention."

On top of that, price could be an issue for some, she added.

"If you're going to fill up, then it can get pretty expensive."

You can hear Twyla's reviews on Edmonton AM every second Friday. You can also see more of her reviews on her blog, Weird Wild and Wonderful, and can follow her on Twitter at @wanderwoman10.