A near-beer affair: N.L. breweries meeting demand for crafty — and boozeless — drinks

There's something in the water at Newfoundland and Labrador's breweries — and it's not alcohol.

Over the past few years, there has been a rise in non-alcoholic offerings at breweries across the province, and some have taken to making their own.

From Bannerman Brewing's Blood Orange & Grapefruit soda water to Boomstick Brewing's non-alcoholic Electric Pale Ale, there are more than IPAs flowing from taps.

The burgeoning market comes as the U.S. Surgeon General pushes for cancer warnings on alcoholic beverage packaging.

At the same time, Canada's health officials are also highlighting the risks of alcohol consumption, pointing out its correllation to a variety of cancers.

But brewers say it's not just health-conscious consumers driving the trend: age is also a factor.

"In part, it seems to be a generational push," said Craig Farrell of Banished Brewing in Paradise, N.L.

"It seems the post-secondary crowd look for low or no [alcohol-by-volume] options much more actively than previous generations."

Banished offers a selection of non-alcoholic products in their taproom, from their house-made soda water and non-alcoholic Newfoundland Slush to non-alcoholic beers from other brewers, like Partake.

Pam Goodyear, head of sales at Dildo Brewing, says it's part of a worldwide trend "driven by younger generations."

I think more breweries are pivoting to looking at themselves as more like a beverage company rather than a brewery.- Dave Bridger, Boomstick Brewing

"One could suspect that Gen Z and younger folks don't prioritize consuming alcohol socially the same way as other generations have," she said.

Most of the brewers contacted for this story say they've seen an upsurge in demand for non-alcoholic options, and some are running with it in creative ways.

"Just because you're not drinking doesn't mean you don't want to try something new or engage your tastebuds," said Dave Bridger, a brewer at Boomstick Brewing in Corner Brook.

Boomstick produces Electric Pale Ale, the only non-alcoholic beer made in the province.

It's a sentiment echoed on the other side of the island, too.

"With health and wellness being so top of mind, more people are looking for ways to enjoy a beer without the next-day regret," said Christina Coady, co-owner Landwash Brewery in Mount Pearl.

Landwash offers an ever-changing mocktail menu, as well as non-alcoholic wine and beer, at their taproom. "Treating yourself to something delicious and refreshing shouldn't mean feeling worse for wear later," she said.

Expanding the N.L. craft-beverage industry

It's not only non-alcoholic beers that are rising in popularity across the province. Brewers say they're seeing more demand for low-alcohol beers, low-carb options and canned beverages in general.

"The industry is shrinking, and you have equipment that can be used for more than just beer. So people are finding new ways to use the equipment they have to stay in the same world," said Bridger. 

The province is seeing an upswing in popularity for canned carbonated water — like those at Banished Brewing and Bannerman Brewing — but also for hard seltzers.

Landwash Brewery released their series of Big Pond hard seltzers in 2023 (there are now four flavours), while Banished, too, has started offering its own selection.

"In the world of craft beverages, I think it started with beer in a big way, but you're seeing more people doing cocktails ... then there's different kinds of non-alcoholic cocktails, then THC sodas and moving into that world," said Bridger. "I think more breweries are pivoting to looking at themselves as more like a beverage company rather than a brewery."

"With those changing consumption patterns, it is an opportunity for creativity, both when you're figuring out recipes and what you're going to sell and then getting out into the market," said Jeff Bird, also of Boomstick Brewing. 

"There is opportunity, even with people drinking less,"

Challenging brews 

Brewers across the province may have a keen interest in creating non-alcoholic beers, but there is at least one major challenge — pasteurization. 

"We lack the equipment needed for pasteurization. Without alcohol to preserve the product, pasteurization is essential for food safety," said Leslie Penney, who owns Baccalieu Trail Brewing in Bay Roberts with his wife Jennifer Penney. 

"The main holdup for us at Landwash is that we don't currently have a pasteurizer, which is key for ensuring non-alcoholic beer is shelf stable. Alcohol acts as a natural preservative, so removing it requires extra steps to keep the beer safe from bacteria," explains Coady. 

"Non-alcoholic beer is something our brewmaster ... has wanted to bring to market for a while and will be, hopefully, sooner than later," says Goodyear about Dildo Brewing.

"Having a tunnel pasteurizer in our new facility allows us to brew and safely package [non-alcoholic] beer. Alcohol is an important part of the trifecta of beer preservation along with hops and acidity that keeps beer food safe. Remove one, and suddenly something dangerous can grow in the beverage." 

Let there be light (lager)

In addition to the non-alcoholic options, the brewers contacted for this article said they're also seeing a big increase in he popularity of light beer, with a lower than average alcohol percentage.

Some local breweries are producing beers with less than 4 per cent ABV – Port Rexton's Small Trek, a light lager, sits at 4 per cent, while Banished Brewing just launched their own. In November, Baccalieu Trail Brewing launched Ultra Light, their low-carb, low-gluten lager. 

"There is a large market segment in Newfoundland that already drinks low-carb beer options. We launched an ultra-light beer to appeal to that segment, offering a fresher, local option at a comparable or better price point," said Penney.

At Landwash, Coady was inspired by the freshness of a beer she tried while travelling in the U.S., and came home to create Prickly Fish, which over the years they have brought down from a 4.5 per cent beer to what's called a tiny pale ale, now sitting at 1.9 per cent.

"That beer was all about being the perfect sip after a leisurely bike ride, and it stuck with me. When the chance came to brew a sessionable beer during the first COVID summer — when people were at home or enjoying the outdoors — that inspiration shaped the recipe," she said. 

With changing demands, breweries realize they need to offer more than high-percentage IPAs and embrace a new wave of taste. 

"The pendulum has really swung the other way," said Bridger "So you're seeing a lot of 2 per cent, 3 per cent kinds of things come out."

Download our free CBC News app to sign up for push alerts for CBC Newfoundland and Labrador. Sign up for our daily headlines newsletter here. Click here to visit our landing page.