The view from Qom

I went to do some reporting in Qom the other day, the city where the roots of the Islamic Revolution took hold 30 years ago. Today it remains at the heart of Iran's religious establishment.

Qom is also home to one of Shia Islam's holiest shrines — the tomb of the Imam Reza's sister Fatema Masoumeh, a descendent of Muhammad.

As I was wandering through the tiled courtyards with a female friend and colleague, I spotted a glass door with a sign above it that read International Affairs. Surely that means us I thought. And so in we went.

Inside we found three mullahs sitting in an ornate room with plush carpets and swirling, pastel-coloured wall fixtures that looked a bit like icing on a wedding cake.

Ayatollah Nazeri was clearly in charge.

"I am at your disposal," he said, after inviting us to sit. "You can come up with any question you wish.

"Totally friendly and confidential and it won't be reported to any other organization," he went on. "People can share whatever words they wish and we will answer."

I felt like we had stumbled into an oracle's den.

The effect was a bit hypnotizing and I felt greedy, like I wanted to ask him all the unanswered questions in the world. But I decided to keep it simple. "How many mullahs live in Qom?" I asked.

"One hundred thousand," was the prompt reply. "Out of a population of one million."

We asked more questions, which he answered. Then he begged a question of us in return.

"What do you think the message of this shrine is," he asked.   It took us two or three tries before we came up with an answer that made him nod in approval.

"It's about women," we offered. Yes, he said, this shrine to a woman represents Islam's respect for women, because men come to bow down before it."   Looking pleased that we'd finally managed to catch his meaning, Ayatollah Nazeri was clearly encouraged to continue.

He said there are no limitations on women in the Islamic republic, that they are free to choose any jobs they might like.   "But female Muslims choose jobs in which they have no contact with men other than their husbands," he went on. "Female Muslims choose [house-keeping] and raising children as the most beautiful job."

His little speech broke the spell and reminded me that we were here to cover an election taking place outside the oracle's den.

Many women I have met here do, indeed, choose to be at home and some see it as an important part of their faith.

But many others — to whom the Muslim faith is no less important — say they are not free to choose, that Iranian society works against them.