Indigenous

Cookem Daisey's frybread pie a hit at Winnipeg's new indigenous eatery

When Glenna Henderson thought about making a career change, she didn't expect it to involve batches of bannock. But this is where she found herself when Cookem Daisey’s opened in Winnipeg earlier this month.

Glenna Henderson creates her dream job serving up frybread pie at Cookem Daisey's

Glenna Henderson shows off her frybread pie in the newly established Cookem Daisey's restaurant inside the Garrick Hotel in Winnipeg. The restaurant is named after Henderson’s grandmother, known as 'Kookum' Daisey. (Brittany Hobson)

When Glenna Henderson thought about making a career change, she didn't expect it to involve batches of bannock. But this is where she found herself when Cookem Daisey's opened earlier this month.

"I guess sometimes you have to make the dream jobs," she said.

In record time — one month — Henderson found a space in Winnipeg's Garrick Hotel and opened Cookem Daisey's on April 1. The restaurant specializes in indigenous cuisine.

"I don't know if it was a total plan but after working for a number of corporations, I needed a change," said Henderson. "If you really want to make a difference, you can't always be subject to other peoples' rules."

Before opening Cookem Daisey's, Henderson spent 18 years helping set up casinos across Canada and the U.S . She moved back to Winnipeg last year. After months of searching for a job, she decided to create her own catering company and restaurant.

'There's always room for more'

Henderson's love of cooking comes from growing up on Sagkeeng First Nation, where her grandmothers taught her how to cook bannock and pick wild rice.

"You learn things from different people, but it all comes down to the same thing: we build our social systems around food and games."

Henderson said she's used to feeding large groups of people — both of her parents came from big families, so dinners consisted of 25 or more people around the table.

"There's always people around and I don't mind having more," she said. "There's always room for more."

Secret ingredient to frybread pie 

Cookem Daisey's menu includes traditional wild rice soup, frybread tacos and something that can't be found elsewhere — frybread pie.

The name for the dessert came when Henderson had a food booth in North Battleford, Sask.

"I started making [frybread with] jam and a butter cream frosting sauce for my kids," she explained. "I started sending it out, and all of a sudden someone came up and asked, 'Can I get a frybread pie?' I sold 800 of these in three days."

Henderson said when it comes to making her hit frybread pie, there are three must-haves: a big batch of Robin Hood flour, 30 minutes of rest time for the dough, and a sprinkle of love. 

Meanwhile, making bannock is quickly becoming a reflective time for Henderson.

"When I'm making bannock, I like to come here early and do it alone because that's my alone time," she said. "I get to think about why am I doing this and dedicating this time throughout my days."

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Brittany Hobson

The Canadian Press

Brittany Hobson is a reporter with The Canadian Press.