Union Bakery: making burek in Windsor for 40 years

The Union Bakery is a small, unassuming bakery on Windsor's east side. Multiple signs on the Tecumseh Road building proclaim their signature item: burek. 

"It's a specialty of some Turkish people, and a specialty of former Yugoslavia," explains Union Bakery owner Slobodan Todorovic. "It's a pie that's done by hand from different layers ... we make it four layers here."

Union is one of the only bakeries in southwestern Ontario that makes it.

Similar in concept to the Greek spanakopita, a variety of fillings are available, including meat, spinach and cheese, apple, and potato. The most popular variety, however, is just cheese. At Union, it's a blend of feta and ricotta.

How is burek made?

Zoran Pavlovic is the baker in charge of making all the burek. Originally from Bosnia and Herzegovina, he was recruited by the Union Bakery specifically for his burek skills. He makes twenty pies every day.

Burek making is highly specialized — it's hard, physical work. Everything is done by hand.

The dough is made with just flour, water and shortening. Once portioned, the dough rests for a few hours, and then Pavlovic starts to stretch it out.

The dough is then tossed into the air multiple times until it becomes a large sheet — so thin, it's almost see-through. Pavlovic folds this large sheet of dough into a square and starts making another large sheet of dough.

The process is similar to wrapping a gift.

Pavlovic places that first dough square on top of the second sheet, adds the filling and then wraps it up. The process repeats until he makes a large pouch filled with four layers of dough and cheese. That pouch is placed in a pie pan and baked for forty minutes. 

Each pie is then sold whole or by the slice.

According to Todorovic, burek is a very versatile food.

"You can eat it as a side dish, even as a bread, if you want. You can eat it as a main dish too," he explains, noting that he enjoys dipping his slice of burek in yogurt. 

What does it taste like?

I tried the basic cheese burek, which is the most popular. While the top and bottom layers of dough are crispy and golden brown, it's not as flaky as spanakopita, which means it's not as messy.

The pastry is warm, savoury and rich — and because the main ingredients are cheese and flour, it's incredibly filling.

The taste reminded me of an excellent homemade macaroni and cheese.

Where can you find burek?

The Union Bakery is located at 4081 Tecumseh Rd. E. in Windsor. A full cheese burek costs about $15, but can purchased by the slice. You can also buy frozen burek for a reduced price.

In addition to cheese, other fillings include meat, spinach and cheese, apple, and potato. 

The Bakery is open every day except Monday and accepts cash only.