Learn the secret to finding the perfect Portuguese custard tart at this Mississauga bakery

Suresh Doss: Easter always brings me memories of pastries, baked goods and cakes. For as long as I can remember, we would do food rituals with Sri Lankan or Indian food, but always complimented by excessive amounts of cakes and pastries, whether it's my mom baking, or someone brought over a box of baked goods.

So I thought It would be the right time to talk about this wonderful Bakery called Lazar, which just turned 21 years old, in Mississauga. Owner Francesca Carneiro says, "Lazar is known for our custard tarts, Those are baked daily. We bake at least a thousand a day. If you want our actual secret - you come at 11 o'clock everyday, that's when they come out of the oven. You're guaranteed to have hot, fresh natas at 11 o'clock every day." 

Jill Dempsey: So take me to Lazar. Describe what it's like to enter. 

Suresh Doss: I've been going to Lazar for years. It's a regular spot for me when I'm in the area and, for many years, this is where we would kick off a food tour, if we're eating through Mississauga simply because there is a very unique vibe here, thriving with people. This is totally your kind of place. 

As soon you open the door, you're greeted with a variety of aromas, baking spices and the smell of butter and egg. There is a cafe at the right side of the building and there was never an empty seat at the cafe. It's part grocery store, with a big island in the center with displays of cakes, a cheese section, a section dedicated to cured meats. To the side you'll find this wall of pastries; Italian pastries, Portuguese pastries. The Pasteis de Nata, as Francesca mentioned, is made by a lady named Irene who has been making them for the last 18 years. She's from the Northern coastal city of Aveiro, famous in Portugal for traditional sweets. 

Jill Dempsey: We've both had a chance to sample because we've both had a chance to visit. So you know they're going to be amazing. 

Suresh Doss: Yes. So you would try to grab a few nata, maybe some sfoglia, or a few stuffed doughnuts. Oh I can't miss this, the cannolis. The cannolis are almost hidden, you have to find them. They're at the island display. And they're piped with fresh Ricotta. It's outstanding. 

There's even a hot counter at the back where you can get a hot lunch. Next to that, rows of shelves that are stacked with freshly baked bread. Jill, I am not exaggerating, it's quite a scene, you would need a few minutes to find all of the gems. You would find people from all over the world in this place in a strip mall.

Jill Dempsey: It just sounds so cool. What about the hot counter?

Suresh Doss: So I'll admit for many years I didn't make it to the hot counter because my sweet tooth would get the best of me. But recently I've discovered that there are some great plates here. The menu changes daily, it's not really printed so you have to look around and see what they have; a variety of vegetable stews, meat stews. I recently had this chicken stew with vegetables on seasoned rice which was fantastic. The roast chicken is also great there and they also do a whole roasted fish. But, for you and I, there is a side table with an assortment of Portuguese fritters. 

Jill Dempsey: So with Lazar being such a lively place, what has it been like during COVID?

Suresh Doss: Lazar has been opened for two decades and they've built a very loyal following. People visit daily, weekly so they have a lot of community support. But Francesca says things have been quiet over the last year. 

"In the last year, what I miss most is our customers coming and sitting down, socializing, becoming a family with our customers. I miss that connection." 

Jill Dempsey: I'm sure the customers miss her. 

She is such a lively person. She is making espresso in the cafe when you're in there or she's serving you nata, she's kind of all over the place but she is definitely the personality of Lazar Bakery. 

This interview has been edited