Saskatoon

Have some fresh local asparagus? Here's a perfect recipe for it

Renée Kohlman says she enjoys asparagus in a multitude of ways, but this shaved asparagus salad with pistachios and mint is one of her favourites. It’s quite easy to prepare and lovely to behold.

Renée Kohlman's shaved asparagus salad with pistachios and mint easy to prepare, lovely to behold

An artfully framed photo of a salad with shaved asparagus, bits of cheese and a few other herbs.
Renée Kohlman's shaved asparagus salad with pistachios and mint. (Renée Kohlman)

There's nothing quite like that first snap of fresh asparagus in the springtime. The first vegetable to pop up from the earth, its verdant spears are a supreme treat after a long winter of root vegetables and rugged greens.

When this much-loved vegetable is fresh from the fields, it tastes of spring, fresh air and renewal. In my opinion, it's one of the best things to come from the earth.

Most large supermarkets carry asparagus year-round, but the stuff shipped from California doesn't compare to locally grown. With the homegrown stuff having a rather short growing period — typically Mother's Day to Father's Day —  I thoroughly enjoy every spear that comes into my kitchen.

Whether swirled in a pan with hot butter and garlic, roasted with olive oil and lemon juice, stirred into pasta or chopped into a salad, fresh, local asparagus is absolute magic. Those six weeks in late spring are pure bliss, and the fleeting nature of asparagus season is much like life: savour every second of it while you can.

Asparagus is an interesting vegetable. For instance, did you know it is the young shoots of the cultivated lily plant that grow out from an underground stem or rhizome? Or that some plants can produce asparagus for 15 to 20 years?

There are about 20 varieties of edible asparagus divided into three groups: green asparagus, the most common; white asparagus, the result of asparagus growing underground or being deprived of light; and violet asparagus, which has a distinctive fruity flavour. All types of asparagus pack a nutritional punch, with high levels of vitamins A and C, potassium, iron and calcium.

Asparagus is an aquatic plant that needs plenty of water to produce those delectable, verdant spears. Given the tendency for dry growing conditions around Saskatoon, I always do a little happy dance when the rain falls on the fields. It means more asparagus for me!

Did you ever wonder how asparagus gets from the farm to the shop where you bought it?

Full disclosure: my partner in life and love, Dixon Simpkins, is a local vegetable farmer here in Saskatchewan, and spends a great deal of time in May and June cutting asparagus. Dixon says asparagus can grow as much as six inches in one day if the weather is warm and sunny, which means that it has to be harvested at least once a day.

Each spear is harvested by hand, which means it can take a toll on the lower back. Believe me, growing food is not for the faint of heart, spirit or body.

Shaved asparagus salad with pistachios and mint

An artfully photographed salad.
The asparagus shavings are tossed in a punchy lemon and mustard vinaigrette. The pistachios provide desirable crunch and the fresh mint adds freshness. Be generous with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, as its saltiness balances out the acidity. (Renée Kohlman)

I enjoy asparagus in a multitude of ways, but this shaved salad is one of my favourites. It's quite easy to prepare and lovely to behold. The ingredient list is fairly simple, which means you want those ingredients to be of the best quality you can afford.

You will need a sharp U-shaped vegetable peeler, the best tool for peeling the asparagus into thin ribbons. Don't snap off the bottom end like you usually do — you need something to hold onto while you peel. You will have some thicker pieces remaining, as it's impossible to shave every last inch of asparagus down, but you can save these for an omelette or stir fry.

The asparagus shavings are tossed in a punchy lemon and mustard vinaigrette. The pistachios provide desirable crunch and the fresh mint adds freshness. Be generous with the Parmigiano-Reggiano, as its saltiness balances out the acidity.

While edible flowers aren't absolutely necessary, if you have them growing in your garden, why not add them to a lovely springtime salad? After all, we feast with our eyes first.

Ingredients:

  • 1 lemon, scrubbed.
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil.
  • 1 Tbsp minced chives.
  • 1 tsp grainy dijon mustard.
  • 1/2 tsp salt.
  • 1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper.
  • Pinch of sugar.
  • 1 lb asparagus, ideally thick spears.
  • 1/2 cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
  • 1/2 cup torn fresh mint leaves.
  • 3 Tbsp roasted pistachios, slightly crushed.
  • Small handful edible flowers such as violas (optional).

Directions:

1. Zest the lemon into a small bowl and set it aside. Juice the lemon, reserving 2 Tbsp of the juice for this recipe. Save the rest for something else. 

2. In a large bowl, whisk 2 Tbsp of lemon juice, olive oil, chives, mustard, salt, pepper and sugar. 

3. To shave the asparagus, pull the peeler from a few inches from the bottom of the stalk toward the tip. Turn the stalk over when you read the middle and do that side as well.

4. Add the shaved asparagus to the bowl and toss with the dressing and lemon zest. Add most of the cheese, mint and pistachios. Toss again. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with remaining cheese, pistachios, mint and edible flowers. Serve immediately. Makes 4-6 servings. 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Renée Kohlman

Freelance contributor

Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over twenty years. Her two cookbooks All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions) and Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions) have won awards and been on best-of lists.