Uncle Sunny showcases culinary collision course that defines Vietnamese food
Local foodie eats his way through Regina to share his take on what’s good
Chi Dang came to Canada with a dream of a better life for her family. Half a year later, she and her husband had saved up enough money to buy out the business that provided Chi with her first job on this side of the Pacific.
More than that, they've been able to make investments in Uncle Sunny to offer some of the freshest authentic Vietnamese food in Regina.
"I love Canada so much. We are so happy here," said Dang. "We feel supported by Canadians, by our customers."
Dang and her husband, Vung Pham, moved to the Queen City in November 2021 from the Dong Nai province in southern Vietnam, along with their two young daughters.
Dang snagged a job at Uncle Sunny, which had just opened in August of that year at 3241 Saskatchewan Dr.
By June 2022, they ran the joint. Today, the couple and three employees work hard to keep the place humming seven days a week, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
One of the first things Dang did was order a 114-litre stainless steel electric steam kettle to simmer the beef bones and brisket used to make the broth for pho, the nourishing noodle soup made famous by Vietnamese restaurants. Dang cooks the broth for 24 hours before serving it to customers. She says the kettle not only helps her produce a large quantity of broth but also make it more flavourful. She has succeeded: the resulting flavour of the soup is nothing short of spectacular.
Dang went to cooking school in Vietnam, then worked in a restaurant for three years before immigrating to Canada. She also learned how to make French baguettes from a maker of legendary bread near her home.
"There were lots of good bakers in my town, but I chose to learn from this one because she is the best," said Dang.
Baguettes, most prominently used as the vessel for banh mi, or Vietnamese submarines, have been a staple in the country since the French colonial era, which ran from the 1880s to the mid-1950s.
Dang and Pham bake fresh baguettes every day. They also bake savoury garlic cream cheese buns, sweet coconut buns and other Vietnamese treats — all of which pair nicely with an Uncle Sunny's Vietnamese iced coffee. Another of their specialties are steamed bao buns, popular in China and many parts of Asia.
Vietnamese food is a collision between East and West. Many of the dishes feature a marriage of French technique (baguettes and pâté); regional Chinese and southeast Asian umami combinations (soy sauce, fish sauce, garlicky and sweet marinated meat); and fresh herbs and flavours available locally in Vietnam (cilantro, basil, mint, lemongrass, lime and bird's eye chilies).
The pho, banh mi and bao at Uncle Sunny put these juxtapositions on full display. The interplay between rich broth and meat, pungent and salty sauces, and pops of bright acidity or herbal notes? That's the calling card of Vietnamese cuisine. Even visually, the food is colourful and appetizing.
Dang pulled out her phone to show me Uncle Sunny's online reviews and comments, in which people indicated their favourite dishes. She also made sure I knew they have a 4.7-star Google rating.
She is so proud of what she's built here.
"This is my first time running a business and I've had some difficulties. However, I am always happy and smile to create delicious food."
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