Algonquin chef uses social media tutorials to marinate and educate

From smoked mackerel to stuffed beaver to moose stew, Justine Deschenes uses social media to stir up a culinary and social awakening on Indigenous issues.

A self-described cultural and food ambassador, the Algonquin chef goes by the handle "Justine Cooks" on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook where she has built up a following of both Indigenous and non-Indigenous fans hungry for her next informal cooking tutorial and opinions on Indigenous culture.

"I'm combining my passion and love for my culture and my people and our way of life, with my love of cooking," said Deschenes.

"I like to take elements of my culture and really represent my people by kind of modernizing our old ways. First Nations people were really resilient and that's something that I like to show."

For example, Deschenes posted a video on TikTok in which she stuffs and roasts a beaver over an open fire using her daughter's old crib as a makeshift grill. She's also posted tutorials of stewing moose meat using the animal's blood, and plucking and cleaning a Canada goose.  

"To me being Indigenous in 2021 means not taking any shit. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't do it anymore," she said.

"We know we're not being cruel. We know our rights. We know our stories and we know our reasons. Don't take it. It's plain and simple to me. It means being strong, it means being resilient and being you. Don't hide yourself anymore. That's how I feel. And look at me. I'm sitting here with beads and a ribbon skirt on. You just be you. Be proud."

Grandmother was her 'absolute hero'

Some of Deschenes' cooking sessions occur outdoors in the bush near her home on Kitigan Zibi Anishinabeg First Nation in western Quebec. On this day, she smokes mackerel in a tipi-like structure in her backyard using a fish grill she wove together from red willow branches.

"I get to do it the old way that my ancestors did it and feel really connected, but I'm using modern tools such as shears that help me cut everything and make it uniform," she explained.

"Some people would argue that I'm moving away from my ancestors, but for me I feel like I'm closer to them doing it this way because it just shows how much we adapt and how resilient we are."

Deschenes credits much of her strength and pride to her kokom (grandmother), Emma Jerome. The pair spent countless hours together in the kitchen cooking up traditional meals.

"She was my absolute hero and my goal in life is to be as awesome as she was."

Cooking tutorials informal, even messy

The smoked mackerel first involves brushing the pieces of fish with maple syrup, then Deschenes wraps them in wild garlic leaves before placing them on her handmade fish grill, which then rests over hot coals.

She earned a diploma in culinary management from Algonquin College, but Deschenes is not into the classroom style. She prefers to keep tutorials informal and sometimes even haphazard.

"The first tipi we made collapsed. We said, 'Big deal!' We learn as we go. I will never claim to be an expert, except for maybe flavouring things where I will tell you I know what I'm doing."

Combining food and activism

Sparked by the declining population of moose in her family's traditional hunting ground, Deschenes recently joined other Algonquins as they set up checkpoints in La Vérendrye wildlife reserve. Unsurprisingly, she used her skills to feed the protesters.

She also took this opportunity to speak up on her social media channels. Deschenes addresses the concerns of Algonquins and tackled misconceptions held by some non-Indigenous hunters.

"Since my first experience with racism I've always been really vocal about our issues and things that we face as First Nations people. I like to use food as a vessel to talk about these issues," she said.

"I just wish people would understand that the people living in these secluded reserves, they don't have a choice and they're actual people."

As part of the 2021 Summer Solstice Indigenous Festival, Justine Deschenes and other Indigenous personalities are offering chef-led virtual cooking workshops that see subscribers receive a meal kit in advance of the live event [the kits cost a fee but the video tutorial is free). Deschenes' tutorial covers homemade fish tacos with hominy corn salsa, and is scheduled for broadcast on June 21.