Nova Scotia·Special Report

Nova Star experience: Not your average ferry ride

The CBC's Angela MacIvor describes the mixed feelings that come with riding the heavily-subsidized Nova Star ferry between Yarmouth and Maine.

'Nova Star charges more, yes, but they also offer more. The part I am wrestling with is whether it's too much'

Passengers aboard the Nova Star relax and take in the ocean scenery. (CBC)

The CBC's Angela MacIvor describes the mixed feelings that come with riding the heavily-subsidized Nova Star ferry between Yarmouth and Maine. 

As I sit here, the sun is shining through the large port window. I see a woman to my left knitting.

A group of women play cards.

Others are reading a book or enjoying a drink. It's peaceful.

The servers are nearby, ready to spring into action, but they don't hover.

In the middle of the ocean, there is no cell service and limited WiFi (also, the price is steep at $5 an hour).

It's a quiet, mellow vibe.

CBC Reporter Angela MacIvor is aboard the Nova Star ferry this week, to see first-hand what it's like to ride the controversial service. (CBC)

Being that I am a reporter with a critical view of everything, I want to dislike this voyage so I have something to write about.

I realize that's harsh; however, this ferry service is a controversial subject and I have a job to do.

CBC has done many stories about the controversial ferry service.

The fact that Nova Scotia taxpayers are footing much of the bill has left a sour taste in many people's mouths. The provincial government gave Nova Star $28.5 million last year and has committed another $13 million this season.

Meanwhile, Maine hasn't provided any funding.

To make matters worse, ridership hasn't been as high as initially expected, and that's something the province wants to see increase by summer.

Nova Star keeps saying it's on target to reach 80,000 passengers by the fall — a jump by more than 20,000 compared to 2014.

On this voyage, there are about 130 passengers on board.

It's definitely a far stretch from filling the ship to maximum capacity of 750 people.

All of that aside though, Nova Scotia is well represented onboard. 

Local merchandise featuring Nova Scotia products line the boat's gift shops, information tables, while art work lines the walls.

Nova Scotia musicians give passengers some local flavour, and staff members educate visitors about the home of the Bluenose.

The experience, as advertised, is just that — an experience.

Is it too much?

It's not the "ferry" ride I envisioned. When I think "ferry," I think about the crossing from Pictou, N.S., to Wood Islands, P.E.I.

I've taken that particular route many times, and I can tell you there is nothing elaborate about it.

The 90-minute crossing from Nova Scotia to P.E.I. is on an old boat with no one serving food and drinks, other than the cafeteria. There are no activities. It's often crowded, and finding a quiet place where you can lay your head down is rare.

Nova Star charges more, yes, but they also offer more.

The part I am wrestling with is whether it's too much.

Many tourists don't have the extra cash to spend a couple of hours in the spa or pay for fine dining.

On the other hand, I've talked to passengers who decided to take a trip to Nova Scotia because of that service.

When I asked crew members who they see more on the ship, the answer was always Americans.

I even talked to one woman who brought her mother on a trip from Massachusetts to Nova Scotia because of the Nova Star. She said she would otherwise have no reason to visit Maine or Nova Scotia.

Will that lure be enough? Can this boat generate enough income to sustain itself, rather than depending on Nova Scotia taxpayers over the next few years?

That's what our politicians need to determine as they meet with the governor of Maine and the mayor of Portland on Thursday.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Angela MacIvor is a consumer reporter with the CBC Atlantic investigative unit. She has been with CBC since 2006 as a reporter and producer in all three Maritime provinces. All news tips welcome. Send an email to cbcnsinvestigates@cbc.ca