North·Photos

Life in the ice: Meet the crew of the CCGS Des Groseilliers

Icebreakers are a welcome sight for many Arctic communities, where their arrival signals the arrival of the annual summer resupply. CBC's Natasha MacDonald-Dupuis stepped onto the CCGS Des Groseilliers to get a first-hand experience of life aboard an icebreaker.

'Six weeks on, 6 weeks off, it's a thing... but when you love your job it's great'

It's a familiar sight for residents of the Far North: icebreakers journeying to their communities' shores, making way for commercial ships and their much awaited cargo.

However, few get to catch a glimpse of what goes on aboard the monstrous ships.

For a few days now, the CCGS Des Groseilliers icebreaker has been anchored near Iqaluit, after detouring from its original schedule to help commercial ships navigate the thick ice that's accumulated in Frobisher Bay.

The crew of 42 men and women seldom get to set foot into the communities they help resupply, but take pride in the importance of their work for the people of Nunavut.

"We don't really get to see the part where people ashore are really happy to see us arrive," said David Carpentier, the CCGS Des Groseilliers' chief officer. "It's always a small window because of the weather and the ice.

"But I'm sure they're happy to see us,'' he added, smiling.

Powering through 1-metre thick ice

A heavy ship with a sharp hull, the CCGS Des Groseilliers' powerful propulsion system can power through ice a metre thick. Every summer, the vessel travels to the Canadian Arctic to escort cargo ships and conduct search and rescue operations.

"For search and rescue, it's all about teamwork," said Carpentier. "Everyone from the captain to the deckhands is involved in saving that person."

Six months a year, the ship serves as the workplace and home for its crew. It's equipped with a gym, a TV room, a lounge bar, and a cafeteria. 

But ship life also means living in close quarters — you can walk from the bow to the stern in under a minute.

Icebreakers tend to take long trips, and so, naturally, supplies run low towards the end of their missions. Thankfully, it's someone's full-time job to make sure everyone is as comfortable as possible.

"We have fruits and vegetables for the first four weeks, after that it's frozen veggies," said Julie Castonguay, the logistics officer, who's been nicknamed the 'mama of the ship' by her fellow crew members. "We make sure that everyone has clothing, food... that they are happy."

The vessel can carry sufficient provisions for 140 days, and has been fitted with equipment that can turn salt water into drinking water.

In a few days, the crew of the CCGS Des Groseilliers will head north from Iqaluit in order to drop off cargo in Kugaaruk, the only Nunavut community that regularly receives its resupply by icebreaker. Then, it's up to Ellesmere Island to refuel the weather station in Eureka. After that, they'll return to Quebec for a long-awaited vacation.

"I love the compromise that I have to make," said Captain René Hardy, who's been navigating Canadian waters for the last 27 years.

"Six weeks on, six weeks off, it's a thing... but when you love your job it's great. It's a challenge, but a challenge that I love."