Anxious to show their support, Montrealers flock to landmark Ukrainian deli

Music is usually playing inside Zytynsky's, the unimposing Ukrainian deli on Beaubien Street in Montreal's Rosemont neighbourhood — songs by musicians from Lviv, from the late singer Kvitka Cisyk, anything that pleases owner Angel Zytynsky. 

"I like to put people in a good mood," Zytynsky said from behind the counter.

But there was no music to greet customers on Thursday afternoon.

"It didn't feel right," she said. Instead, Zytynsky lit a candle with a Ukrainian embroidery pattern on it and placed it behind her as she worked.

The deli has become a magnet for Ukrainian Montrealers seeking community as their country of origin faces a full-scale attack from Russia, as well as others eager to show their support.

While protests and vigils are also going on, Zytynsky's is low key, a place where people can chat and find human connection while going about the business of life.

It's what Yolanta Petrowsky and Lynda Pineau came to do. The two, who became friends last year, have links to Ukraine and Poland. 

'You can't forget your roots'

Petrowsky has lived in Quebec for 35 years but is from the city of Lublin in Poland, near the border with Ukraine and Belarus. Her native city has already begun taking in refugees, housing many at the local university, she said.

"I wish I was there with the people, helping, feeling useful," Petrowsky said. "In difficult times, you can't forget your roots — and your food!" she added, holding up two bags filled with goods from Zytynsky's. 

Throughout the day, people dropped by for the deli's specials: kielbasa, strudel, cherry cheesecake and smoked-meat sandwiches.

Benjamin Hatcher, who lives nearby but is not Ukrainian, said he had called one of the Ukrainian Catholic churches in the neighbourhood to ask the priest when he could attend the next mass.

"I just said that I'm in Rosemont and that I wanted to show my support and I wanted to know when masses were, so I could come and just be there in solidarity, and pray," Hatcher said.

The priest struggled to answer. 

"He couldn't even get to that. He just started crying." 

Angel Zytynsky has been running the deli for 36 years, but the shop dates back to 1920, when her grandfather founded it. She has deep roots in the Ukrainian-Montreal community and knows most of her customers by their first name.

"I've been holding on, but it hasn't been easy," she said. "Everyone is concerned. Everyone has anxiety. I mean, they're all worried." 

At one point, Zytynsky's 86-year-old mother accidentally called her on Facetime, her face red from crying as she tried to digest the news from Ukraine. 

As the day progressed, Zyntynsky juggled customers, reporters and loved ones vying for her attention.

One man offered a hug. Another customer, an older woman with a bell on a lanyard around her neck, dropped off a present.

It was an angel statuette with a candle inside and a little note that read, "We pray for Ukraine."