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'An emotional ride': Participants cross finish line of 4,275-km reconciliation snowmobile expedition

Hundreds gathered in Uashat mak Mani-Utenam to welcome 50 participants of the First Nations Expedition — a 4,275-kilometre snowmobile journey through Indigenous communities, which honoured the late Joyce Echaquan and promoted reconcilitation.

'If we stand together as nations, the stronger we will be,' says organizer

Three people stand next to eachother looking at the camera. One of them is wearing a purple vest. They stand in front of a sign that says First Nations Expedition in French.
From left to right: Carol Dubé, Thomas-James Echaquan-Dubé and Diane Dubé. Diane is the mother of Joyce Echaquan and Thomas-James is one of Joyce's seven children. Joyce died on Sept. 28, 2020 in a hospital after staff hurled racist remarks at her. This week, an expedition to honour her and other causes wrapped up in Uashat mak Mani-Utenam, Que. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

Robbie Tapiatic of Chisasibi, Que., held his face in his hands as he recalled how for the past 18 days, he prayed for Carol Dubé — the husband of the late Joyce Echaquan. 

Before getting on his Ski-Doo each day and driving in the snow for upwards of 12 hours at a time — leaving his face with scars from frostbite — Tapiatic recalled starting his mornings with prayer.

"Every morning I would ask my ancestors and my grandfathers, 'take me to the finish line,' and they did," said Tapiatic, wiping tears from his eyes.

On Saturday night, Tapiatic was one of 50 people who crossed into the Innu community of Uashat mak Mani-Utenam, near Sept-Îles, Que., completing what organizers believe to be one of the longest off-trail snowmobile expeditions in the world. 

Travelling alongside Dubé as part of the 4,275-kilometre snowmobile expedition, Tapiatic says the trip was centred around reconciliation.

WATCH | 'Mission accomplished,' says one organizer after trek across Quebec

4,500-km snowmobile trek a healing journey for Indigenous riders

2 years ago
Duration 1:40
A group of about 60 snowmobilers — mostly Indigenous — completed a 4,500-kilometre expedition across Quebec Saturday night. Called the First Nations Expedition, participants said it was about so much more than just snowmobiling.

The trip was designed to raise awareness for three main issues — the plight of missing and murdered Indigenous women and girls, children who never came home from residential schools and the climate of racism that claimed the lives of Indigenous people, including Echaquan.

Echaquan died in a Joliette hospital in 2020 after video showed health-care staff hurling racist remarks at her. Her death, and the footage leading up to it, sparked outrage and activism, especially after a Quebec coroner reported that if Echaquan were white, she would still be alive.

Although Dubé was initially only supposed to join in the expedition for a few stops, he ended up staying for the entire trip, noted Tapiatic.

"I got to say, he's a very strong man," said Tapiatic. "He impressed me a lot and I'm really glad that I got to drive him and lead him."

A map of Quebec shows the route of a 4,500 km snowmobile expedition.
The route for the First Nations Expedition took riders to multiple Indigenous communities across 4,275 kilometres of Quebec. (Radio-Canada / Sophie Leclerc)

'A lot of tears were shed'

Tapiatic noted that he and some of his close friends always dreamt of continuing their grandfathers' legacies — some of whom had traversed long distances by foot for weeks on end.

"We said we have to do our trip someday, try to follow our grandfathers' footsteps and all the teachings we got all throughout our lives," said Tapiatic. "And now we just accomplished the biggest expedition."

A family of four smiles at the camera.
Robbie Tapiatic alongside his wife, Dolores, and two kids, Shaylene and Maverick. Robbie was one of 30 participants who completed the full 18-day trip. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

Tapiatic said the reunion with his family at the finish line on Saturday was particularly sweet.

After nearly a month away from home, he drove his Ski-Doo along a snow-covered path lined with excitable children and adults raising signs with messages of support for their loved ones.

"I heard my brother's voice saying 'wow Robbie'," said Tapiatic. "Right away I looked at him and he was standing there … People from the Cree Nation showed up to show their support and tell us how proud they are. A lot of tears were shed."

Tapiatic said in addition to his wife, kids and brother, both his parents surprised him at the end of the trip.

His mother, Sarah Tapiatic, said the thought of the expedition often makes her "want to cry."

She and her husband are both residential school survivors. She said she hopes this trip can facilitate understanding about Indigenous people.

A feast is happening with dozens of people at several tables.
Community feasts, like this one in Waskaganish, Que., were organized along the route for expedition riders. (Submitted by Waskaganish culture and tourism department)

Stories of hardship, perseverance

The goal of the trip was to tell stories of hardship and perseverance directly to non-Indigenous peoples, said Richard Moar, vice-president of the First Nations Expedition.

About 50 people drove Ski-Doos with 30 of them taking part in the entire length of the expedition. Participants were Anishnabe, Atikamekw, Cree, Innu, Naskapi and non-Indigenous, and the team stopped in 10 Indigenous communities.

"It's to share our story," said Moar.

"Non Indigenous peoples [now] see who we are despite what we had to overcome … We have to find a way to approach the Quebec and Canadian population, non-Indigenous people, to share our story, to share how we live with the system that was imposed upon us."

The back of a person who is wearing a coat. They are looking up at the sky, at a red and green firework.
A display of fireworks closed out the evening on Saturday after the expedition as people reunited with their families. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

The project first got off the ground nearly two years ago when one organizer, Derek Jeremy Einish, spoke about a possible expedition to some of his friends, including Tapiatic.

"I said 'what's it for? Is it like a weekend expedition, a week expedition?'" recalled Tapiatic.

"[Jeremy Einish] said 'it's to raise awareness for Every Child Matters, murdered and missing Indigenous women and Joyce Echaquan.' We didn't have any questions of, you know, who's gonna buy our machines. We said 'we're joining this because it's gonna come from our heart.'"

'Honour my wife whenever I have the chance'

Speaking at a dinner in Uashat mak Mani-Utenam on Sunday night, Dubé said the expedition was an adventure in healing and that he doesn't have the words to describe the gratitude he feels for everyone who helped make this trip possible to honour Echaquan.

A person hugs someone on a Ski-Doo.
Families and friends greeted their loved ones as they drove in and crossed the finish line after the 4,275-kilometre trek. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

"I still cry, even during the day. We have lived through a horrible situation. We still live with it … I love my kids and I've decided to honour my wife whenever I have the chance," said Dubé.

"We have to speak up, be loud, be heard and to show that we are still here."

A woman's photo is placed in a vase holding a light and flowers.
Joyce Echaquan's photo was featured on the tables at a dinner on Sunday. Alongside banners with her photo, purple lights shone on the stage — Echaquan's favourite colour. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

Among the crowd cheering for Dubé as he led the crew to the finish line on Saturday night was Echaquan's cousin, Germaine Dubé, Atikamekw from Manawan, Que.

"I have so many emotions," said Germaine, sobbing, adding that two of her brothers were driving in the expedition.

A man wearing red and purple gear drives a Ski-Doo. People greet him with smiles.
Carol Dubé arrived by snowmobile on Sunday evening in Uashat mak Mani-Utenam. The cultural site is where the community’s residential school — Pensionnat Notre-Dame — once stood. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

A survivor of residential schools, she says the expedition made her think about all the difficulties her family faced over the years and how they "stayed strong despite everything."

"The importance of the expedition is reconciliation … To share and to come together [like this] more often," said Germaine.

A woman stands with a signs reading 'bravo'.
Germaine Dubé greeted her two brothers who were part of the expedition. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

'It felt like we were stronger'

Louise Shecanapish from Kawawachikamach was one of nine women who participated in the trip and was honoured in a purification ceremony on Sunday to celebrate their achievement.

The women were gifted feathers and earrings in front of a dining hall full of fellow participants and their families — where organizers later announced the second expedition planned in two years' time, which will hopefully involve even more communities.

Five women stand on a stage holding feathers
Louise Shecanapish, centre, was honoured on Sunday evening as one of nine women who took part in the expedition. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

Shecanapish said part of what made the difficult trip a success was the support.

"I don't think it's something we were really expecting … It was really what made the trip worth it. It felt like we were being heard and bringing together Indigenous people from all over, it felt like we were stronger," said Shecanapish.

Reflecting on the two years of work that went into the trip, organizer Jeremy Einish, Naskapi of Kawawachikamach, says he savoured the precious time with his 22-year-old son, as they got to know participants from various communities.

Two men stand next to eachother, giving a thumbs upé
Derek Jeremy Einish, right, pictured with his son Terek Vollant-Einish. Derek Jeremy said he wasn’t sure everything would work out exactly as they hoped — especially after the trip was postponed because of COVID-19 outbreaks. (Rachel Watts/CBC)

"We became friends… Learning [about] different people, where they're from, different cultures, traditions. At the end, the bond was there. We were like family at the end," said Einish.

"Even though we have language barriers, there was communication … We all speak different languages but at the end of the day, we all managed to understand each other and support each other … I believe if we stand together as nations, the stronger we will be."

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rachel Watts

CBC journalist

Rachel Watts is a journalist with CBC News in Quebec City. Originally from Montreal, she enjoys covering stories in the province of Quebec. You can reach her at rachel.watts@cbc.ca.