'The real deal': Montreal master tailor eyes retirement after 50 years
Vincenzo Mercadante says he's looking for an apprentice to keep trade alive
Fifty suits.
That's what Vincenzo Mercadante estimates he needs to sell to clear out his inventory before closing up shop on Ste-Catherine Street East.
Mercadante runs Select Men's Wear, a men's clothing store in Montreal's Hochelaga-Maisonneuve neighbourhood, where he's served as master tailor for more than 50 years.
"My specialty is sewing by hand. It's old fashioned tailoring, but with good ideas," he said.
Mercadante has been involved in the world of tailoring since he was first introduced to the craft in Italy at 11 years old. Born in the village of Vezzara, he learned to tailor through both hands-on experience and professional training.
He moved to Montreal in 1963 and began working at the shop on the weekends as a staff member. He eventually bought the shop and became owner in 1975.
"When I started here, I was enthusiastic," he said, recalling the fond memories he's made over the years and the close relationships he's built with his regulars.
"The customers like me because I understand them. I listen to them," he said.
Now, after a few unsuccessful attempts, Mercadante is officially eyeing retirement. He said once he sells the merchandise left on his floor, he will close his doors for good.
"Nature tells us when to start and when to [stop]," he said, saying he's had the intention of closing for more than a year. He's been slowly breaking the news to his loyal customers.
"Nobody throws me out. I can stay as long as I want, but I really want to close. It's a hard decision."
Crafting suits, creating memories
Select Men's Wear has stood on the corner of Théodore and Ste-Catherine East streets since 1952. The floor is divided into two sections: merchandise in the front and a workshop in the back.
In its final days, the store's decor tells the story of decades of creation: sewing machines are grouped side by side on small tables, handmade hats top mannequin heads, modern graphic T-shirts hang in front of classic suits and denim bags.
Mercadante is even selling his old blue tandem bike set up in the window display.
The master tailor has made a reputation for his expertise with size and fabric, but also with relationships. Over the last five decades, his store became a meeting place for families, friends and travellers.
"I have friends that I never thought I had. They come here with smiles," he said. "They come by just to say hello."
Select Men's Wear also became the site of an annual "friendship" festival, hosted by Mercadante. A party would pop up each year on the street outside the shop, with a line of Fiat 500s parked outside.
Patrick Legault, the general manager of the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve's merchants' association, or SDC, said he attended one of those parties about five years ago
"[Mercadante] brought some old Italian cars, and there was an opera singer. He was serving some wine to the people. It was very nice to be there."
Legault said Mercadante's kindness and humour "will be certainly missed," along with the store's traditional charm.
"There's a lot of old machines. You can feel it. We don't have those kinds of stores anymore… That is something that is slowly disappearing," he said, noting it's rare that a company has a 72-year lifespan on Ste-Catherine.
Legault said he's been a client, too, describing Mercadante as an "artisan" with clothing.
"If you go there, he'll take some measurements and do the exact thing," he said. "The real deal."
Seeking the next generation of tailors
It's not just the remaining inventory that gives Mercadante pause before he closes his doors. He's on the hunt for a way to pass on his tailoring skills to the next generation. Those skills include how to use a three-way mirror, how to make a hat and how to use a zipper machine.
At the beginning of December 2024, he said he posted an invite on Facebook to students within his network to come learn the trade alongside him.
"I want them to have the feeling of meeting the public," he said, noting the invite still stands.
"Being a tailor, you are not only a tailor that sits at the machine and you sew. Being a tailor and having a business, it takes lots of ideas," he said. "You need younger blood."
Mercadante said Select Men's Wear could remain open throughout January as he sells off remaining merchandise, but he'll keep taking client calls long after he locks up.
"I keep telling the customers, I'm going to keep the phone number for at least a year, open. If they need anything, I am there for them. Believe me, I'll do it."
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