Serving up pride in local food traditions on the Magdalen Islands

Alissa Brunetti is determined to stir up pride in the cooking culture of the Magdalen Islands.

Tired of hearing locals say they're embarrassed by their traditional food, Brunetti organized a series of seasonal food expos through a non-profit organization, Le Bon goût frais des îles de la Madeleine.

"There are two plates that are presented on the islands," Brunetti said. "The fancy plate we present to tourists and the plates we found in families: Vachon cakes, patés à la viande. People tend to think this is 'poor people food,' which it's not. There's an explanation for why people started to cook with cans or use pre-made, industrial food — it's historical."

She and her colleagues invited the community to showcase their recipes and food rituals unique to the Magdalen Islands and share stories of how those customs were handed down through generations.

The submissions are being put on display at La Musée de la Mer in Havre-Aubert, where the food expos are held.

On Dec. 1, around 30 people got together at the museum for an expo on canning preserves.

"Before, the islands weren't linked yearround by boat," said Brunetti. "So people had to put stuff in cans and prepare for the winter."

Then there are the "student freezers."

"People have to go out on the mainland to study, so they fill up their cars with lobster, meat pies, all this kind of stuff," Brunetti said.

Then, Brunetti says, when students are low on funds, they'll pull a lobster or a meat pie out of their freezer and serve up a meal to share with their new friends.

A point of pride

The goal of hosting seasonal food expositions is to promote the traditional culinary practices of the Magdalen Islands, as well as to involve the community in developing authentic regional tourism.

"What we're trying to do is to research all these traditions and make people proud of them," said Brunetti.

"I went to see my grandma, and she's not proud of that — she's not proud of her canned beets. But it's so rich, and it's so good, and people treasure [them]."

At the event, local staples like pickled beets, canned mackerel, pickles and cheese from farms on the islands were plated on a charcuterie board for everyone to enjoy.

The goal was to show locals that their day-to-day eating habits deserve the same respect as the fine dining offered to tourists passing through.

"It was super fancy, and people found that really amazing," said Brunetti. "They were like, 'Oh I can do that — with pickles and beets, mackerel and sardines!"

Brunetti has another expo coming up in February.

"We really want the traditions that we show to come from the community," she said.