From Ukraine to Waterloo, this young chef is ready to start anew: Andrew Coppolino

In the 11 months since he left war-torn Ukraine, chef Thomas Cuccia has set some very lofty goals: create a restaurant in uptown Waterloo worthy of a Michelin Star.

Cuccia, 24 and a French national, left Kyiv and headed to southern Poland to escape the strife in August 2022. He says he feels fortunate and said things were difficult at the time, but not as bad as they are now.

"The bombing started pretty early in the morning, 6 a.m., with the sirens. It was complicated when things shut down," Cuccia said, adding he was lucky to manage to get out safely, and quickly, with his former partner, a Ukrainian national.

Cuccia made his way to Lyon, France, the heart of French gastronomy, but he eventually chose to come to Canada because employment and work conditions are better here, he said.

Through the volunteer efforts of the Waterloo Region Grassroots Response to the Ukrainian Crisis, Cuccia arrived in Waterloo region in March 2023.

Cuccia brings with him some culinary chops and some experience in what it takes to achieve food, beverage and hospitality excellence.

He attended culinary school, CFAI Henry Martin in Lézignan-Corbières in southern France and worked for a number of high-calibre restaurants.

A new start

He chose Canada partly because of fewer complications for his Ukrainian partner but also his understanding of, and experience in, the tough restaurant environment in France.

He worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant (now closed) between April 2018 and March 2022; his resume also includes cooking competitions and stints as a cook in the kitchens at premium French hotels.

"I wanted to try to get a better situation and better conditions," Cuccia said. "Canada seemed the best choice. I wanted to be in a country where your work means something. I like to work and I work hard. I wanted to go somewhere where you are valuable."

His background has inspired him to establish his own brand and to set the bar high.

Cuccia is currently working odd jobs to support himself and he also cooks at people's homes as a private chef. His business Toque Noir offers a range of private and group in-home chef services.

He says he's impressed with the activity in uptown Waterloo that he's noticed in just under a year and he knows Waterloo region is one of the province's fastest growing communities.

"Most of my clients live in Waterloo. There's a lot of life and activity, especially in summer, with all the students and the two universities. It's a good location to open a restaurant," he said.

One step at a time

While he admits that the idea of achieving a Michelin star is some distance in the future, Cuccia's current concept is what he refers to as a "bru."

"It would be a bistro, restaurant and bakery open from morning to evening," he said.

When asked what he thinks of the cooking scene locally, Cuccia said it's good but that there is a "classic" style of cooking that he thinks is missing and he wants to fill that gap.

One related fact he has noticed — which perhaps provides a differing perspective from many Canadians when they visit the grocery store each week — are food prices.

"It's cheaper than in France. I call my parents and we compare prices. There it is much more expensive than here, considering Canadian dollars and Euros. But that's a strength for what I want to do here," he said.

While he says that he wants to start out simply with the "very classic" cooking that he knows, Cuccia adds that he aims to grow once he gets settled into the local food and beverage scene.

"There will be an evolution in time, little by little. To open a fancy restaurant is very expensive, so first something little and classic. And in time, expand."