Kitchener-Waterloo

Pro tips and tricks for cooking Thanksgiving dinner: Andrew Coppolino

Thanksgiving weekend is here and if a full, traditional turkey dinner is on the menu, CBC K-W's food columnist Andrew Coppolino has some helpful tips to make the cooking easier.

Local chefs offer suggestions on how to make your Thanksgiving dinner run smoothly

Knife cutting into a roasted turkey
Cooking Thanksgiving dinner doesn't have to be a hassle or stressful with these helpful tips from local chefs. (Paul Cowan / Shutterstock)

We may only prepare full-on roast turkey dinners with all the sides and condiments a few times a year, but when we do, it means cooking for many more people than usual.

That can make the task complicated when it comes to time, space and technique.

A few local chefs offer suggestions for beating the crunch of serving the holiday feast and helping get the best-tasting results possible.

Before you actually head into the kitchen, get an "aerial view" of the meal, the big picture of the number of people you have to serve, what ingredients you require and what the cooking processes — roasting, sautéing, baking — are going to look like.

Fitting all of that into a single day, when family and friends are waiting, can be daunting.

Not being organized and failing to plan is a major problem, says Elaina Kourie, director of Top Toques Institute of Culinary Excellence in Kitchener.

Top Toques Institute of Culinary Excellence's head instructor Dean Michielsen and Director Elaina Kourie. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

"It's the biggest obstacle that people have in cooking for large groups in their homes. They don't plan accordingly or properly," Kourie says.

When it comes to the classic turkey dinner, divide and conquer the chores at hand. If possible, delegate duties to other family members, prepare foods a day or two in advance and have an itinerary for steps to take.

Why you may want to brine your turkey

As for the turkey: to brine or not to brine? This technique can add flavour and moisture to what can sometimes come out as very dry poultry. The classic turkey-carving and eating scene in Christmas Vacation with Chevy Chase says it all.

Brining requires advanced planning a day or so ahead, according to head chef at S&V Uptown, Kris Simmons. The ingredients list is relatively basic, he points out: water, brown sugar (because it has molasses in it), salt, thyme, sage, rosemary, star anise and some orange peel.

Why you are brining is a different matter: it can help you produce a succulent bird.

Portrait of a young man wearing an apron.
S&V Uptown head chef Kris Simmons likes to brine his turkey because it "allows the turkey to absorb extra moisture and stay juicy." (Submitted by S&V Uptown)

"Brining allows the turkey to absorb extra moisture and stay juicy," he says. "The salt actually breaks down the proteins in the turkey which helps it stay tender."  (See Simmons' recipe for turkey brining below.)

Brined or not, a seven- or eight-kilogram bird that needs to roast takes up a lot of time and a lot of space in an oven. Top Toques head instructor Dean Michielsen suggests you divide and conquer — literally.

"Break the bird down before you cook it," he says. "Take the breast off, the legs off and cook them. They'll take about an hour and save you a lot of oven space. It can be done ahead of time and warmed when serving."

Top Toques head instructor Dean Michielsen demonstrates a poultry technique to students. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

If creamy-rich mashed potatoes are a favourite, you can prepare them a few hours ahead and hold them warm for serving.

Mash the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, add cream, milk and butter as if they were ready for the table. But instead, smooth out the potatoes and with an additional cup of warm cream, milk and butter, pour it on top of the smoothed potatoes to "seal" them in the pot.

Cover the liquid with parchment, cling film or aluminum foil and put the lid on the pot; when it's time to transfer them into a serving bowl, stir in the cream mixture and test for seasoning.

Make stock ahead of time

Now that the potatoes are done and the turkey is resting, the ever-popular gravy is likely next on your list. Alleviate the rush to prepare your gravy by adding flour and incorporating stock — and lot of it — a day or more ahead, Kourie says.

Plate with stuffing, mashed potatoes, veg, cranberries and turkey
Full Thanksgiving plate with all the traditional fixings: stuffing, mashed potatoes, vegetables, cranberries and turkey (Julie Van Rosendaal/CBC)

"Buy a couple of turkey wings and roast them with onions a few days in advance. Cover in stock and let simmer for about 90 minutes before straining. Just before service, you can make a roux (equal parts flour and butter). Cook it to the desired colour, then add your liquid and finish with salt and pepper, sage and maple syrup," Kourie says.

I can't recall the number of times in my house that we've said, "We forgot the cranberries!" It's a traditional accompaniment to a turkey dinner, although many people don't like the canned product.

The solution, says Michielsen, is a relatively simple kitchen hack.

"I take a bottle of dry red wine, a cup of sugar, a little lemon or orange zest and reduce it by half. Throw in a package of fresh cranberries, or even frozen, stir and let it sit for a few minutes and you have a beautiful, home-made, and phenomenal cranberry sauce," he says.

In these economic times, with prices for turkey, potatoes, cranberries and dairy, 10 to 22 per cent and higher than last year, you'll want to get as much value — and flavour — out of your meal as possible.

And, as well, do what you can to support local food banks as they strive to help everyone enjoy this festive time of the fall.

S&V Uptown chef Kris Simmons' turkey brine recipe

Ingredients

16 cups water

½ cup kosher salt

2/3 cup brown sugar

4 sprigs thyme

1 bunch sage

2 sprigs rosemary

4 pieces star anise

1 orange zest

Method

Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Chill in fridge until cold. Submerge turkey in a large pot or a insulated cooler for 12 hours. Remove turkey and pat dry before cooking.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew Coppolino

Food columnist, CBC Kitchener-Waterloo

CBC-KW food columnist Andrew Coppolino is author of Farm to Table (Swan Parade Press) and co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare (Greenwood Press). He is the 2022 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer-in-Residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter at @andrewcoppolino.