Kitchener-Waterloo

Andrew Coppolino takes a look at what's new and exciting in Waterloo region's food scene

Periodically, we take a bit of a look around to see what’s new and exciting on the food scene. That might be chefs moving to new locations, new restaurants popping up, or new dishes to try. Food columnist Andrew Coppolino joins us now for the summer edition of News and Views of the food landscape.

From new restaurants to new summery treats, WR'S food landscape is ever-changing

Dan McCowan, chef-owner at Red House in Waterloo stands in front of a rack of wine with his arms crossed.
Dan McCowan, chef-owner at Red House in Waterloo, has now taken on the role of executive chef at Bloom Restaurant inside Conestoga College's Waterloo campus. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

From fresh Montreal-style bagels in Uptown Waterloo to tacos in a couple of venues in downtown Kitchener to a huge event space in the Gaslight District in Cambridge — the food scene in Waterloo Region continues to evolve.

Some of the tallest buildings in Waterloo Region are being erected in urban areas, which means a growing population of downtown-core residents will likely lead to increased foot traffic heading into restaurants in those neighbourhoods.

Uptown has a new coffee shop, Pilot Coffee Roasters. A few blocks away Poppy's Bagel and Bakery is located inside the old post office. Both opened a couple of months ago.

Recent announcements of new restaurants coming to the region include a taco joint called Casa Toro Mexican Street Food 88 located at 28 Benton Street, Kitchener, in the former crepe restaurant that has sat empty for several years.

Vanessa Stankiewicz and Miguel Pastor of La Lola Catering in Cambridge sit together while wearing masks.
Vanessa Stankiewicz and Miguel Pastor of La Lola Catering in Cambridge will be moving to a new location in downtown Kitchener. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Just next door will be La Lola Authentic Taste of Spain, owned and operated by Vanessa Stankiewicz and Miguel Pastor. They'll be moving this fall from their original downtown Preston venue which serves delightful tapas and sells Spanish food and beverage provisions.

The theme continues in the centre block with a Mexican restaurant set to open in the very near future beside the beach volleyball court at Bobby O'Brien's Irish Pub. Don Julio restaurant will aim to prepare authentic Mexican cuisine that is more than tacos.

When it comes to baked goods, Lucio's Bakery, formerly of Ayr, has landed on Park Street near Victoria Street, preparing Portuguese and European baked goods and growing their range of savouries such as sandwiches and quiche.

On King Street East, Kitchener's Churrasqueira Madeira has recently opened as a take-away barbecue-grill cooking up Portuguese staples like chicken, bacalhau, rice and potatoes.

Churrasqueira Madeira Barbecue and Grill store front
Churrasqueira Madeira Barbecue and Grill, opening soon, will offer things like Portuguese-style barbecued chicken, steaks and cod fish, among other dishes. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Staying with the Iberian Peninsula, what began as a food stall at St. Jacobs Market selling a really good bifana sandwich, is now also A Portuguesa Bakery café on St. Andrews Street in Cambridge.

Back in downtown Kitchener, just off Charles Street on Ontario Street, Odd Duck Wine & Provisions has been open about a month now. Part of its uniqueness is that it is guaranteeing their employees a living wage, while banning tipping by customers.

Expanding the business

Several months ago, a number of female food entrepreneurs were operating out of the communal space at Wooden Boat Food Company on Hurst Avenue in Kitchener.

One of those entrepreneurs, Hayley Turnbull, has shifted her business recently. Not only has she been selling fresh baked goods at the Kitchener Market and Waterloo's Mary Allen Farmers' Market, but she is about to open Roux Bakehouse in Belmont Village with business partner Amy Griba, who formerly operated The Milkman's Daughter.

Hayley Turnbull weighs out beets
Hayley Turnbull began operating her business out of the shared space at Wooden Boat Food Company. She'll soon be opening Roux Bakehouse in Belmont Village. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

"We'll be selling locally sourced grocery staples, freshly baked breads, pastries and coffee. There will be lots of sourdough breads, cinnamon buns and French pastries like croissants and pain au chocolat and the standard cookies," Turnbull says.

Pivoting in a changing landscape

Some of these business-plan pivots and modifications were delayed by the worst of the pandemic, but the serious interruption of the course of commerce it caused may have also prompted career changes.

In some cases, it has meant workers leaving the industry. Over the past several years, a number of cooks have put away their knives, retrained in a trade and returned as technicians servicing the industry's HVAC systems. The employment pivot gave them more security, more money and more family time than being a restaurant cook did.

A few food operator-owners have added new roles in addition to their restaurant management duties: some time ago, Darryl Haus of Grand Trunk and Grand Surf became maître d' of Bloom Restaurant in Conestoga College's school of culinary arts. Aura Hertzog continues to oversee AURA-LA Bakery & Provisions, but she'll also be taking on a role as program assistant at SDG Lab/Idea Factory in downtown Kitchener.

Aura Hertzog of AURA LA Bakery & Provisions holds a plate of baked goods
Aura Hertzog of AURA-LA Bakery & Provisions has taken on a new role as program assistant at SDG LAB/Idea Factory while continuing to oversee the bakery. (Suresh Doss/CBC )

Last week, Dan McCowan, founder and owner of Red House restaurant in Uptown Waterloo who has been in business now for a decade, became the executive chef at Bloom Restaurant inside Conestoga College's Waterloo Campus.

Some owners seem to be looking for a career shift, at least in part, after many years in a demanding industry rocked by COVID-19, and they are confident that their staff have the competence and maturity to step up as managers and, in some cases, become part owners of the business.

Summer sweets and treats

Finally, for some new and summery treats, here are two you can find that match the warmer weather.

First, TWB: Together We're Bitter Co-operative Brewing has joined forces with a local grower at Kitchener Market for their Market Days beer using fresh strawberries. The wheat beer, a strong beer at 6.3% ABV, is refreshing, not too sweet and has a light tint from the berries.

Second, Four All Ice Cream is selling a special ice cream in partnership with frontline workers at Grand River Hospital, and it speaks to the spirit of collaboration that continues to define the local food-and-beverage industry.

"This summer, we're again making a lemon, lavender, blueberry ice cream. It was first made by Grand River Hospital frontline workers in 2021, and they named it Our Heroes Eat Ice Cream," says owner Ajoa Mintah, adding that the ice cream so far has raised $6,000.

"Throughout the rest of summer, when we will be producing it, we'll again donate a dollar from each jar sold to the Grand River Hospital Foundation."

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew Coppolino

Food columnist, CBC Kitchener-Waterloo

CBC-KW food columnist Andrew Coppolino is author of Farm to Table (Swan Parade Press) and co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare (Greenwood Press). He is the 2022 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer-in-Residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter at @andrewcoppolino.