Kitchener-Waterloo

Ammar's Market celebrates 20 years in Waterloo Region: Andrew Coppolino

Andrew Coppolino pays a visit to local specialty grocer Ammar’s Market as they mark 20 years in Waterloo Region. The family grocery store has been a pillar in the community.

“It’s like family more than business.” Ammar's Market co-owner Bashar Al-hendi

People stand in front of a Middle Eastern market.
Community members come out to help celebrate Ammar's Market being in Waterloo for 20 years. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

A family grocery store founded by two brothers has just celebrated 20 years in business serving its neighbourhood and the larger community.

With their families, Ammar and Bashar Al-hendi opened Ammar's Market in Lancaster Plaza on March 4, 2004. The specialty grocery store started out as a butcher and deli serving customers looking for halal foods. Over the years it's grown into a thriving market serving local and imported goods to a diverse range of customers.

Bashar Al-hendi said both the store and the family's goal of is serving its customers, and doing so has been particularly satisfying.

"It means a lot, especially after 20 years of the community supporting us and our growth in the community. New Canadians coming here have helped us grow too, and at the same time the neighbourhood around us knows us and have helped us grow, too," Al-hendi said.

Dignitaries attending the celebratory breakfast last Monday included Waterloo MP Mike Morrice, as well as Kitchener Ward 10 Councillor Stephanie Stretch who was there representing Mayor Berry Vrbanovic.

Three men and a woman pose for a picture during a 20 year store anniversary.
MP Mike Morrice (far left) and Kitchener councillor Stephanie Stretch (far right) present Bashar (right) and Ammar Al-Hendi, owners of Ammar's Market, with certificates of recognition for their 20 years of service in the community. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Following the celebration, Ammar's held two days of anniversary specials and did brisk business.

At the best of times, a food operation faces many obstacles from increasing labour and food costs to wobbly supply lines and erratic weather for farmers, not to mention the long-lasting impact the pandemic has had on retail commerce in general.

But, like many small businesses, Ammar's hunkered and down and pulled through the difficult conditions.

The store in Kitchener's Bridgeport West neighbourhood now has 20 employees but started humbly in a single unit of the plaza with a butcher's shop and deli counter selling halal meats and foods. In December 2015, it expanded into the unit next door.

Today, half of the store has beverages, produce and dairy with a unique host of products. There is also a meat and deli counter as well as teas, coffees and spices. If you want dates from the Middle East, Ammar's stocks nearly a dozen different kinds.

A meat counter
Ammar's Market boasts a large halal meat section. Shoppers can also find a variety of different foods from around the Middle East. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

In the other half of Ammar's, through a wide doorway that opens into the original store, you'll find canned and pickled goods, sauces, condiments, several packed freezer cases, both local and imported sweets and baked goods, as well as kitchen equipment and household supplies. A small cooler near the checkout holds fresh foods made locally, including in-house.

Store helps 'fill the gap' for local charities

While retail sales have ensured the business's survival and growth, Ammar's work in the community represents a good portion of its legacy after two decades, according to local charitable organizations.

Faune Lang is manager of fund development and community engagement for Food4Kids Waterloo Region. The not-for-profit, which is seeing significantly increased demand for its services, provides healthy food to children in need when they are not in school and unable to access school nutrition programs.

During the celebration, Lang described the relationship between Food4Kids Waterloo Region and Ammar's Market as "fantastic."

"They give back to the community and work helping us fill the gap of halal products that we need. We are here this morning to help celebrate them and their contributions to the community," said Lang.

A table filled with breads and meats
Ammar's Market welcomed community members and dignitaries with a breakfast table at their 20-year anniversary celebration Monday. (Andrew Coppolino/CBC)

Those comments were echoed by Kim Wilhelm, CEO of the Food Bank of Waterloo Region, an organization that is experiencing its greatest demand for food in 40 years, including on the eve of Ramadan, which begins March 10 (depending on the sighting of the moon).

"It takes community to help community, and this is a great example of Ammar's stepping up to help those people who are in need of food assistance. Partnerships like this are critical," Wilhelm said, adding that the store is currently helping the Food Bank create hampers for Eid al-Fitr.

As it has grown, Ammar's Market has perhaps assumed a de facto ambassadorial role: like other specialty grocers serving food from around the world, the business has taught customers about Middle Eastern food and the culture in which it plays an important role.

However, for Bashar Al-hendi, that role is ancillary to simply talking with the people who visit and shop each day, whether for the first time or as repeat customers.

"We get to know each other very well," Al-hendi says. "It's like family more than business."

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew Coppolino

Food columnist, CBC Kitchener-Waterloo

CBC-KW food columnist Andrew Coppolino is author of Farm to Table (Swan Parade Press) and co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare (Greenwood Press). He is the 2022 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer-in-Residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter at @andrewcoppolino.