British Columbia

1 runs an Israeli restaurant, another a Palestinian restaurant. Both live with the fallout of war

Food can bring comfort and build community, but the conflict has changed the dynamics at two Vancouver restaurants. 

Restaurateurs say they've faced harassment amid Israel-Hamas conflict

Collage of Ofra Sixto of Ofra's Kitchen and Sobhi Al-Zobaidi of Tamam: Fine Palestinian Cuisine.
Vancouver restaurateurs Ofra Sixto, left, and Sobhi Al-Zobaidi say they have had to deal with harassment since the Israel-Hamas war began. (Ben Nelms/CBC)

For Ofra Sixto and Sobhi Al-Zobaidi, food can bring comfort and build community.

But as restaurateurs serving cuisine from their respective homes of Israel and the Palestinian territories, the Israel-Hamas war has changed the dynamics of their business. 

Both restaurant owners say they've had to deal with harassment, and the war is an inescapable topic among clientele.

"Before we used to start with food and then go into politics," says Al-Zobaidi, owner of Tamam: Fine Palestinian Cuisine in East Vancouver. "Now we start with politics and we go into food."

Police investigate hateful comments

An Israeli flag hangs in the window of Ofra's Kitchen in Vancouver's West End and a sandwich board reads: "Come home for a meal."

"This is really not a restaurant," owner Ofra Sixto tells CBC News. "This is really my kitchen and you're in my home and you're always welcome." 

Sixto says she moved to Vancouver in the '90s "to give my kids a better life and a peaceful life and no war." 

While she has embraced life in Canada, she found herself missing the food she grew up with in Tel Aviv. She says she opened Ofra's Kitchen in 2019 to bring a slice of Israel to Vancouver.

"When they come here, the Hebrew music is playing, I speak Hebrew, the food that they eat here is just like in Tel Aviv, and I think this is a major role for people who cannot be there but they feel they're there when they're here," she said.

A woman wearing a colourful apron leans on the door of her restaurant.
Sixto opened Ofra's Kitchen in 2019 to serve the food she loved growing up in Tel Aviv. Vancouver police say they are investigating incidents of hateful comments targeting the West End restaurant. (Ben Nelms/CBC)

Recently, Sixto saw a woman pacing outside of her restaurant before it opened. She greeted the woman, who told her: "I can't be alone now. I don't want to be alone now."

Sixto says she invited her in to watch Israeli newscasts and have something to eat.

"She ate, and at the end of it she says, 'Can I give you a hug?'" she recalls.

Sixto feels strongly about the conflict, that Israel has the right to defend itself. 

She says she has faced harassment and calls for a boycott of her restaurant.

Vancouver police say they are investigating multiple reports of hateful comments directed at Ofra's Kitchen. Incidents under investigation include someone yelling hate speech from a car and a pedestrian shouting slurs from the sidewalk.

"I don't know who are my friends and I don't know who are my enemies ... You don't know who is going to come at you with a knife and who is going to come at you with a flower," she said. 

Food as cultural expression

Tamam, named after co-owner Sobhi Al-Zobaidi's wife, who works in the kitchen, specializes in Palestinian cuisine.

Al-Zobaidi spent his childhood in the Jalazone refugee camp near Ramallah.

"Growing up in a refugee camp is not a pleasant experience," he told CBC News. "You grow up in a place that lacks all necessities of life, that lacks infrastructure. A place that lacks hope, a place that marks you, reminds you every day of your misery, of your defeat."

Tamam Zobaidi is pictured at their restaurant Tamam: Fine Palestinian Cuisine in Vancouver, B.C. on Oct. 19, 2023.
Tamam Zobaidi walks through the kitchen of Tamam, the Vancouver restaurant she runs with her husband, Sobhi Al-Zobaidi, on Oct. 19. (Ben Nelms/CBC)

Out of all the restaurant's dishes, Al-Zobaidi says the mujadara — a simple dish of rice, lentils, caramelized onions and olive oil — is most emblematic of what they're trying to achieve. 

"One of the simplest, most humble dishes you can find," he says. 

For Al-Zobaidi, food is a potent form of cultural expression. 

He is a poet and filmmaker who studied at New York University and wrote popular music back home. 

He says he has noticed that people can have preconceived notions about art, while food has the ability to break down barriers. 

"Food is amazing in the way it carries out culture," he said. "People, when they love your food, they become humble. They are more willing to listen to your stories that are associated with the food that you serve them."

Sobhi Zobaidi is pictured at their restaurant Tamam: Fine Palestinian Cuisine in Vancouver, British Columbia on Thursday, October 19, 2023
Sobhi Al-Zobaidi says food has a way of breaking down barriers. (Ben Nelms/CBC)

He says his eatery has faced harassing phone calls and bogus negative online reviews, but he is not going to hide.

"We are proud of who we are. We are proud of our culture," he said. 

"We don't shy away from the way we think. We're against violence. All that we seek is to be able to live in peace in our country — that's all, like everyone else — to be able to work, to live, to dream, to plan a future for our children.

"Lots of people see all this bloodshed now and all this hate and they think that it's impossible to solve this problem, and I don't think it's impossible."

WATCH | Sobhi and Tamam Al-Zobaidi on how food creates community: 

How flavour and food creates community

3 years ago
Duration 4:55
Sobhi and Tamam Zobaidi show their signature Palestinian dishes

With files from Sophie Woodroofe and Yasmin Gandham