All things apple: Biting into a fall fruit favourite

B.C. grows hundreds of varieties of apples from the old favourite McIntosh to the lesser-known Ribston Pippin. And now is the time to take a bite. 

"It's not only peak season for fall apples, but it's also prime time for apple festivals," On the Coast food columnist Gail Johnson told guest host Margaret Gallagher.

This weekend's Apple Festival at the University of British Columbia features 57 varieties, including Ambrosia, Jonagold, Nicola and Empire, says Johnson.

How do you like them apples? 

The Nicola apple is a result of a successful cross between Gala and Splendour apples, and was developed in Summerland, says Johnson.

"The Nicola will actually get even tastier as fall progresses, so its flavour intensifies with time. It's sweet, aromatic and juicy."

The Empire apple was developed at Cornell University in New York. It's a cross between a Red Delicious and a McIntosh, and is ideal for roasting, baking or sautéing, says Johnson. Jonagolds, also developed at Cornell University, are a cross between Jonathan and Golden Delicious apples.

Back in B.C., the Ambrosia apple was discovered by chance in the Similkameen Valley, says Johnson. The original seedling was a product of unintentional breeding in the orchard, according to the official Ambrosia website 

"It literally popped up unexpectedly in a row of Jonagolds," says Johnson. 

How to cook with apples

Johnson spoke with a few B.C. chefs about their favourite ways to cook with apples, including Mark Filatow, executive chef at Waterfront Wines in Kelowna.

"Right now [Filatow is] loving Honeycrisp. Just the other day, he made a flatbread with smoked chicken, gouda, and roast apple."

Chris Klassen, executive chef at the Courtney Room in Victoria, is making apple souffle, says Johnson.

"That's not a dessert we see very often on restaurant menus anymore, because it takes time to make. But this one sounds worth waiting for," says Johnson.

Klassen caramelizes the apples and spikes them with Calvados apple brandy, which he says is the best ingredient to pair with apples.

For the love of cider

Johnson says that B.C.'s craft cider industry has exploded in the last few years with dozens of different apple ciders being produced with locally grown fruit.

"Five years ago, there was really only a handful of cideries. Now, the B.C. Farm Crafted Cider Association has close to 30 members," says Johnson.

Vancouver Island's Merridale Cidery and Distillery recently hosted the second annual Cider Harvest Festival with the participation of 14 craft cideries.

Merridale's Scrumpy cider, made with crab apples, is a good one for Scotch drinkers to try, says Johnson.

"It has a distinctive, robust taste. And it's 11 per cent alcohol content, so it's meant for sipping."

Listen to the full food column with Gail Johnson here:

With files from On the Coast