Montreal·Make the Season Kind 2024

Cooking up skills, community support in Quebec's collective kitchens

While food banks help put food on the table, organizations helping to run collective kitchen groups in Quebec say that cooking together helps participants build skills, foster social connections and gain support that extends beyond the kitchen.

Community kitchen groups seeking better recognition

A family pictured wearing Santa hats and preparing a pie.
Lisette Veillette (far right) said she had such a great time making pies at last year's Christmas event that she brought her whole family to Coaticook's collective kitchen this year. (Gordon Lambie/CBC)

Every December for the past 15 years, a small army of volunteers has gathered in Coaticook, Que., to prepare hundreds of Christmas meal kits for the community.

It's an annual tradition for the collective kitchen group at the Centre d'action bénévole in the Eastern Townships.

This year's kits included a tourtière, a chicken pot pie, an apple pie and a family-sized serving of soup. People in the community were welcome to buy up to five kits for $10 each on one condition: they had to come assemble the pies themselves.

"We're used to stuff that's pre-made now, so sometimes it's a big thrill for the families because they've never done it before," said Marjorie Tyroler, the director of the volunteer centre.

A woman showing off five pies.
Sandra Piccini showing off the chicken pot pies she made. (Gordon Lambie/CBC)

Tyroler speculates that the event in her community could be the largest collective kitchen activity in the province, but it is far from the only one.

According to Melanie Lamoureux from the Quebec Collective Kitchens Association (RCCQ), there are more than 1,000 different collective kitchen groups meeting regularly across the province.

These activities are run by different parent organizations, and they are much smaller than the event in Coaticook. Still, they all share the same goal of helping to fight food insecurity by sharing costs and giving people an opportunity to learn more about how to make a good meal.

"It's a wonderful activity," Lamoureux said. "There are so many benefits for the body, the mind, the soul."

LISTEN | Community kitchen groups say they serve an important social role
Over 1000 collective kitchen groups meet regularly to prepare food together across the province of Quebec. It is a way to share the costs of food preparation and to learn from each other, but the organizations running the groups say they also serve an important social role. Eastern Townships reporter Gordon Lambie shares perspective from different groups who run collective kitch programs about the challenges involved.

The RCCQ traces the history of collective kitchen groups in the province back to one project out of Montreal in the 1980s, but since that time, many organizations have started up kitchens of their own.

In each case, the organization offers guidance and support for cooking workshops by providing a space and the basic ingredients for a given recipe. Participants then work together to prepare a meal.

A man wearing a hair net and giving thumbs up.
Marc-Étienne Messier helped prepare the dough for over 500 pies. (Gordon Lambie/CBC)

Marjolaine Delisle is a food security agent with Les Tabliers en Folie in the area around Richmond.

She says there are clear benefits to collective kitchen projects for families and for people living on their own, but that there are challenges that come with co-ordinating the workshops as well.

"It's not meant to be something that happens once and then you're done," Delisle said, explaining that a collective kitchen group works best when people have the opportunity to meet regularly and learn together.

The rising cost of food is also making things challenging.

Although some groups benefit from donations and the economy of pooling resources for ingredients, rising food prices make certain items less accessible over time.

A woman preparing dough and wearing plastic gloves.
Michelle Fowler, inspired by her past experience benefitting from the collective kitchen, decided to help with this year’s preparations. (Gordon Lambie/CBC)

For Delisle, part of the solution to that challenge is getting more people to understand collective kitchens

"A lot of people think that we are kind of …meals on the wheels, that we do food to deliver," the community kitchen worker said.

She said if people better understand what a collective kitchen is, they will be more equipped to support those in their community — or even take part in one themselves.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Gordon Lambie

CBC journalist

Gordon Lambie is the CBC's Eastern Townships journalist and is based in Sherbrooke. Before joining the CBC, Lambie reported for the Sherbrooke Record for 10 years.