Kitchener-Waterloo

Custom knives forged in Kitchener 'a cut above' the rest: Jasmine Mangalaseril

A well-made knife that’s comfortable to use will make kitchen tasks easier and more enjoyable. Food columnist Jasmine Mangalaseril speaks to a Kitchener, Ont., knifesmith who’s forging custom knives that combine form and function with stunning sharpness for professional chefs and home cooks.

Knifesmith Tom Stegner says he wanted to create something to make people go 'wow'

A man in a graphic t-shirt forges a knife.
Tom Stegner of Stegner Crafting in Kitchener began forging knives after watching a bladesmithing competition show now he makes custom knives that are used by some local chefs and home cooks in the region. (Jasmine Mangalaseril/CBC)

Ask any home cook or professional chef about their most important tool, they'll probably tell you about their knife.

It slices, dices, chops, and juliennes. A well-made knife will make getting a meal on the table easier and more enjoyable, whether it's a dinner for one or a banquet for 100.

For Kitchener, Ont., knifesmith Tom Stegner, owner of Stegner Crafting, designing and forging high performance knives that are as comfortable to use as they are beautiful to look at is his calling.

Stegner got interested in crafting knives a few years ago while watching the bladesmithing competition show Forged in Fire as he was recuperating from a spinal surgery.

"I've always been into knights, and I always thought owning a real sword would be really, really cool," Stegner said.

A set of chef's knives with custom handles.
This custom order set of knives from Stegner Crafting was made for the sushi chef and co-owner of The Humble Lotus. (Jasmine Mangalaseril/CBC)

Already a skilled welder, he created his equipment, including a forge, grinder, tempering oven, and power hammer. When he didn't find nearby courses, he researched blacksmithing science and techniques.

He began with smaller knives, progressing to larger ones, even making Samurai swords. Now he makes knives for hunters, home cooks, and chefs.

Forging with fire

After the design stage, Stegner starts with Damascus steel billets (metal bars) to create his blades. It's a 1,500-year-old technique developed by Middle Eastern blacksmiths that created legendarily durable steel through the folding, heating, and quenching of South Indian carbon steel ingots.

Unlike European blades at the time, these were strong and held their edge.

Here in Kitchener, Stegner welds high-carbon steel with no-carbon steel, which give the completed blade stunning telltale patterns reminiscent of zebra stripes or fingerprints.

"I work with high carbon steel, and another that's got nickel in it. That is the shine. The high carbon steel, once it's etched, turns out dark — almost black," explained Stegner.

A man stands in his welding shop with a couple of his knives
A bladesmithing competition show sparked Tom Stegner's interest in crafting knives and swords, "I always thought owning a real sword would be really, really cool". (Jasmine Mangalaseril/CBC)

It takes hours to create a blade, at times working with temperatures exceeding 1,000 C. He moves billets from the forge to the power hammer to the anvil and back to the forge, flattening and shaping the metal.

They then undergo heat treating, tempering, etching, and finishing before attaching handles he's crafted. He said he can make a knife in about 15 active hours.

"I don't want to make just something normal. I want to create something that makes you feel good, makes you look at it and go 'wow!' so that gives me an inner satisfaction," Stegner said.

Custom made for the individual

His customers come through word-of-mouth, with his knives finding their ways into home and restaurant kitchens.

Dennis Hernandez, executive chef at The Blackshop in Cambridge, has a custom-made chef's knife.

"He does a really great job keeping the angles on the knife. The blade's nice and sharp. It's comfortable," said Hernandez. "I just love that they're custom. They're just built for the individual who wants one of his knives."

A man slices eel
Stegner knives are used in the kitchen at The Humble Lotus in downtown Kitchener. Co-owner Jared Wood ordered custom sushi, chef, and specialty knives from Stegner Crafting. Here he uses one to slice eel. (Jasmine Mangalaseril/CBC)

After getting to know Stegner, and trying out a knife and his sharpening services, Jared Wood, the sushi chef and co-owner of Kitchener's The Humble Lotus, ordered custom sushi, chef, and specialty knives.

"Tom is so humble with his craft and his determination to make you the most perfect knife he can possibly," said Wood.

He also talked about Stegner's sharpening services.

"As a person who uses knives all day for my craft, this is my toolbox. And if my toolbox isn't at the perfect sharpness, I can't do my job," Wood said.

Knife tips for the home cook

Sean Duffy, chef technologist at Conestoga College's School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts, offers these suggestions for home cooks wanting to keep their culinary edge.

  • The three knives you'll actually use: A chef's knife, a paring knife, and a bread knife.
  • Stick to magnetic holders: Knife blocks have more knives than you'll need. And sliding them in and out of vertical slots may damage them.
  • Keep it clean: Wash and dry your knife by hand immediately after use, to keep them from rusting or staining. Also, clean your knife after honing and sharpening to remove any fine particles. And never put them in the dishwasher.
  • Sharpen up: Sharpen your knives at least once a year (more often, if you're an avid cook) and you can hone them as often as you wish.
  • Wood is good: Wooden cutting boards are knife-friendly and have antimicrobial properties. Stay away from hard boards, like those made from glass or marble.

WATCH | Chef technologist Sean Duffy hones a knife:

How to hone a knife

7 months ago
Duration 1:43
Sean Duffy, a chef technologist at Conestoga College in Waterloo, Ont., explains how to hone a knife.

And, most importantly, comfort is key, he says.

"I like to try to recommend people try a different knife. German style...Japanese style. You can get really different knives that will do the same job, will get the [same] end result, but [have a] very different feeling," Duffy said.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jasmine Mangalaseril

CBC K-W food columnist

CBC-KW food columnist Jasmine Mangalaseril is a Waterloo Region-based food writer and culinary historian. She talks about local food, restaurants, and the food industry, and how they affect what and how we eat. She’s on Bluesky, Mastodon, and Meta as @cardamomaddict.