Walking tour explores the history of Vancouver's Black community

In celebration of Black History Month, a walking tour in Vancouver is revisiting some of the historical landmarks of the city's Black community. 

CBC's Margaret Gallagher, the host of North by Northwest, walked the tour with historian Yasin Karaga, founder and executive director of the African Descent Society B.C., the non-profit hosting the tours.

Karaga says gentrification and "urban renewal" efforts by the federal government led to the displacement of the Black community from the Strathcona neighbourhood. 

He says acknowledging historical wrongs is one of the ways to rebuild what was once a thriving and vibrant community in the area. 

"We need everybody to know that the Black community, we are here," he said.

"We came here, we existed and we're still here."

The tour begins outside what was once known as Vie's Chicken and Steak House, and features five landmarks.

Vie's Chicken and Steak House

Established by Vie Moore and her husband, Robert, the restaurant at 209 Union Street was a hot spot for the Black community, and regarded as one of the best restaurants for live entertainment in Vancouver for more than 30 years.

In addition to hosting visiting Black musicians, including Louis Armstrong, Nat King Cole, Billie Holiday and Diana Ross, Vie's is also said to be where Nora Hendrix worked and where her grandson, famed guitarist Jimi Hendrix, played. 

"[He] was one of the last famous artists to visit this building. As a younger man, he always came to Vancouver from Seattle to visit his grandmother. Then he played some music," Karaga said. 

The restaurant closed in September 1979.

Hogan's Alley

Black settlement in the once-vibrant neighbourhood dates back to 1858, when governor James Douglas introduced a policy welcoming Black Californians to British Columbia.

Karaga says the name, Hogan's Alley, is derived from the word 'hooligan' — a derogatory term against minorities.

The alley, which ran between Union and Prior Streets, from Jackson Avenue to Main Street, was razed to make way for the Georgia and Dunsmuir street viaducts as part of a plan to build a freeway through the city in the '60s and '70s.

Across Canada and the U.S., "urban renewal" efforts often targeted Black communities and cultural enclaves. The viaducts opened in 1972, although plans for a larger freeway never came to pass.

Former Country Club Inn

Along Hogan's Alley is the Irish Heather Shebeen — what used to be the Country Club Inn at 246 East Georgia.

The venue, Karaga says, was one of the most famous entertainment clubs of the Black community. 

It was run by Leona Risby, who not only served southern-style food but also hosted performances by her kids Leonard, Thelma, Chic and Sy, who would go on to become performers in their own right. 

Fountain Chapel

Built in 1904, what was once the First Scandinavian Lutheran Church at 823 Jackson Avenue went on to become the heart of the Black community. 

In 1918, after spending years worshipping out of rented halls, Nora Hendrix led the community to buying the church for $1,000.

Hendrix pitched the idea of organizing parties through which the group managed to raise $500, and the rest was matched by the African Methodist Episcopal Church in the U.S.

"That's why, you see, the church already became the cultural centre for the Black community," Karaga said.

The Pullman Porters' Club

At the corner of Main and Prior Streets, backing onto Hogan's Alley, stood the Pullman Porters' Club, another hangout spot particularly for Black porters.

Due to its proximity to the railway station, Hogan's Alley was a popular area for housing railway porters who played an important role in Black labour history and the history of the railway. Members of the community gathered at the club for parties as well as fundraising efforts.

The African Descent Society B.C. is hosting two tours, one on Feb. 22 and another on Feb. 26.

For more stories about the experiences of Black Canadians — from anti-Black racism to success stories within the Black community — check out Being Black in Canada, a CBC project Black Canadians can be proud of. You can read more stories here.