Canadian tennis star Leylah Fernandez wants kids to celebrate their diversity in the lunchroom
Shireen Ahmed remembers her classmates' reactions to her childhood foods
When I was young, my mother used to make a dish that I loved with spiced stewed beef and okra. It is called bhindi gosht. I loved the texture and the flavour. I would mix it with aromatic basmati rice and my mouth elevated into tastebud heaven. It was also a welcome change from the peanut butter and strawberry jam sandwiches or cheese I took almost every day.
One day, in Madame Santerre's grade three class, I pulled out my blue thermos (yes, with the matching Holly Hobby lunch box) and opened the lid. Immediately the smells wafted through the air and I smiled. It tasted like home. But it was too much for my classmates in Halifax during the 1980s.
"WHAT IS THAT SMELL?" a classmate of mine yelled out. Startled, I quickly covered the thermos to try to reduce the aromas. But I was too late. The delicious aromas had spread quickly and my traditional cuisine was suddenly being mocked.
"It smells like doo-doo!" my very blond classmate pointed and laughed. He finished his cheese and crackers. And smirked proud that he got the attention he loved.
WATCH: Celebrate your diversity with your lunch
I was humiliated. I put the thermos away and decided to eat a crisp McIntosh apple instead — tart flavour without the mortification. I never took bhindi gosht to school again. Looking back, I wish I had the strength to tell this boy to shut up or ignore him. I remember that moment vividly almost 40 years later. I also remember how no one said anything in defence. Most of all, I remember how hungry I stayed until I got home and then ate my leftovers in the peace and comfort of my home.
Recently, an interview with a young Canadian tennis phenom brought this moment back to me in a way I didn't expect. On the heels of a huge win for 21-year-old Leylah Fernandez and the Canadian team at the Billie Jean King Cup, Fernandez spoke to me about tennis but also about identity, and food.
As someone with Ecuadorian and Filipino roots, Fernandez told me that as she gets older she examines social issues in a different way with the help of her family. As a young racialized athlete from an immigrant history, she welcomes discussions of different issues and stands behind her principles and her family traditions. She is also very proud of her identities even though they are not always common in the historically very white tennis world.
"By talking about [issues in society] we can encourage younger kids to feel proud of themselves where they or their parents come from originally," Fernandez said. "And we can accept them and welcome them with open arms in any sports, in a group setting, where they can feel confident and they can enjoy a sport the way it's meant to be."
WATCH: Fernandez leads Canada to Billie Jean Cup:
Fernandez said that there were moments when she would sometimes get embarrassed taking guatita (a Peruvian tripe stew) to school.
"It is difficult because it does look very abnormal," she said. "That was one dish that I was shy or scared of what other kids would think."
Ultimately Fernandez was proud of her heritage and she knew the food was cooked with love.
"I knew they made the food with love … and they wanted us to experience happiness, love and acceptance," she said. Those are values with which her food was made and shared.
While Fernandez' personal philosophy is marinated in kindness, it is also coupled with pride. Fernandez has partnered with Ritz for an incredible campaign to encourage kids to be proud of themselves and family traditions, which include food. The campaign seeks to create safe spaces for kids in the lunchroom to celebrate different cultures through the meals they bring to school.
The microsite also offers diverse recipes from different culture, and a video of children talking and sharing their traditional foods. I teared up watching it the first time and shared my response with Fernandez who laughed kindly and offered very kind words of understanding.
"A Lunchbox Moment" may seem quite simple, but it can be deeply impactful as well. Food and sport are two profound connectors in society and that Fernandez is the ambassador for this campaign makes perfect sense.
It also makes great sense when she explains that her favourite dishes are aji de gallina (spicy Peruvian chicken stew), seco de carne (a saucy and juicy dried beef stew) and she misses eating them while she's on the road. It takes a long time to prepare and sometimes her parents don't have time and Fernandez admits that on the road she eats a lot of pasta, which is good but doesn't remind her of home.
Like most elite athletes, she adheres to personalized nutritional plans during competition and training. But her connection to this campaign is so clear when she has a love of traditional and home-cooked food. She also offers some sage advice for the younger generation and some that little Shireen could have used decades ago.
"Don't listen to other peoples' opinion," Fernandez said. "And be proud of where you come from, where your parents come from. And be proud of the food. The food is ultimately part of our culture and you bring it home and you are presenting it to the world."
Although Fernandez is based in Miami for training, she considers family to be where her family is. But that doesn't mean she doesn't miss good old Canadian fare. And it might surprise you to know Fernandez misses poutine the most. She is happy to dive into the first place she sees that has a good reputation for the french fries with cheese curds and gravy.
I love cooking and when I had my own kids, I always encouraged them to enjoy eating our foods. They grew up unapologetic and appreciative of the effort and cultural connection. But not everyone is taught or feels that way. At my home, the two most happily consumed foods are beef ribs and matar qeema (spiced ground beef with peas).
We live in a world where bhindhi gosht, guatita, ribs, and poutine can live beside each other and thrive on a table at a family gathering or friends' dinner. And they deserve to co-exist happily in a lunchroom.
And maybe we needed to be reminded by one of our country's greatest young tennis talents.
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