What I learned from trying to recreate my Ah-ma's Taiwanese meatballs
Joann Pai's keeping her Ah-ma's memory alive — one recipe at a time.
Canadian Comfort Food Cookbook showcases the diversity of recipes that satisfy Canadian bellies — and the stories behind them.
As a travel and food photographer, Joann Pai spends her life seeing the world, eating great food and taking pictures. She is constantly surrounded by mouthwatering delights, but there are only a handful of foods that have special meaning — like her late Ah-ma's (grandmother) meatballs.
What makes your Ah-ma's meatballs special?
It always brings back memories of our childhood and time spent with Ah-ma. The meatballs are very comforting to eat.
To us, her recipes are tied with memories of spending time with her.
Were you close with Ah-ma?
Growing up in Taiwan, I was very close with my Ah-ma. She lived with us and I spent most of my days after school by her side. I admire many of her qualities and wanted to be just like her. She was a strong and gentle woman. She was an amazing cook and I help her in the kitchen just to spend time with her.
Your Ah-ma sounds like a very special woman. When she died, how did you honour her memory?
One day, after her passing, my dad and I were reminiscing about all the dishes she made: the soy meatballs, beef stew, 3 cup chicken, Taiwanese omelet. I suggested to my dad that we should try and recreate some of her recipes.
My dad and I were both novices in the kitchen so this was not an easy task. A few years had already passed since I last tasted her cooking. We started with her pork meatballs with shredded carrots, ginger. We discussed each step as we went — how big the meatballs should be? Should the carrots be shredded or julienned? How much ginger vs. soy?We tried many variations and nothing felt exactly right. The carrots were too hard, the sauce wasn't balanced enough, the meat was too salty, etc.
She inspires me to be strong and gentle, to be patient, generous and persistent.
While recreating the recipe, my dad and I would exchange stories about Ah-ma. I confessed about the time she did my homework so I wouldn't get in trouble at school. The experience was helpful for us to remember and honor her. We made it a tradition that on the anniversary of her passing, we would get together and tackle another recipe. Even now, her food still brings us together.
I also continue to honor her memory through my actions. She inspires me to be strong and gentle, to be patient, generous and persistent.
Did you and your father ever master the meatball recipe? Does it taste the same as hers now?
I can't say that we have mastered or that it tastes the same as how she made it, but it's close! I think a huge part of it that food is contextual. To us, her recipes are tied to memories of her. Even if you recreate the same recipe, it will never taste exactly the same.
Is there another recipe from your Ah-ma you'd like to try?
Her 5 spice beef stew is next on the list.
Joann Pai is a food and travel photographer based in Vancouver, Canada and Paris, France. www.sliceofpai.com
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.