Under the Influence

There's a real Doc Marten – and he wasn't a shoe designer

It all began with a doctorate, a skiing accident and a bit of ingenuity.
Miley Cyrus gave Dr. Martens boots a new cachet when she wore a pair in her her music video for "Wrecking Ball." (CBC)

One of the more serious honorifics is the word "Doctor." In the marketing world, it's usually reserved for a brand named after a founder.

Back in 1945, Klaus Maertens was a 25-year-old German army doctor. He was recuperating after breaking his ankle in a skiing accident. The standard-issue boots he was given with their hard leather soles were not only uncomfortable, they hindered his recovery. He wondered why you could enjoy a smooth ride in a car with air-filled tires, but you couldn't enjoy the same principle with boots. So, he decided to design a boot with a softer sole.

Doctor Maertens cut up pieces of an automobile tire and slipped them into his shoes. While it lessened the impact on his ankle, it didn't lessen the pain.

He showed his prototype to a friend who was a mechanical engineer, who then suggested using two rubber insoles. One stitched to the leather, the other heat-sealed to the first – creating a soft air pocket. The pair filed a patent and went into business. Using old military supplies and tire rubber, they began producing comfortable, durable boots.

80 per cent of their sales were to German women over 40.

They advertised their boots in magazines, and one ad caught the attention of a shoe manufacturer in England. That company acquired the exclusive rights to manufacture the boot.

The first thing the English company did was to make a few modifications to the footwear. The boot was made fatter and rounder, the sole was made thicker with a grooved, two-toned edge, and a contrasting yellow stitching was introduced.

The boots were christened "Doc" Martens. The target audience: factory workers and miners.

They would have remained utilitarian work boots had it not been for a young musician looking for comfortable clothes to wear onstage.

One day in 1967, guitarist Pete Townshend walked into a hardware store to buy a pair of work overalls to wear for an upcoming gig. While there, he spotted a pair of Doc Martens. He wore them that night, and found that the air-cushioned soles let him literally bounce around the stage. On top of that, he liked their aggressive, austere style, which was the opposite of the psychedelic look he was tired of.

Thanks to Townshend, Doc Martens caught on as an anti-fashion statement. Next, they were adopted by the skinheads in England who clashed with police, who were also wearing Doc Martens.

Then in 1975, Elton John wore a 54-inch pair of Doc Martens in the movie version of the Who's rock opera, Tommy. Being associated with the Who, the Clash and the Sex Pistols gave Doc Martens a sartorial air of rebellion. By the end of the 70's, Doc Martens were an aggressive symbol of self-expression.

Since then, Doc Martens have been worn by everyone from kids and adults, to brides and celebrities on the red carpet. And in 2023, Doc Martens hit $1.25 billion in revenue, a milestone in the company's 62-year history.


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