When to toss old beauty products according to a cosmetic-science expert

Not sure if the beauty products on your bathroom shelf are still safe to use, and effective? Knowing may be more complicated than you think, despite generalities that make the rounds about throwing away makeup after a certain (sometimes seemingly random) amount of time.

Health Canada told CBC Life via email that it "does not have specific requirements for expiry dates on cosmetic products" and that its recommendation is mainly: that consumers keep their cosmetics clean by storing them in a dry, cool area, that they wash their hands before application, not share makeup or dilute it, and not use any product "if it changes in smell, colour or feel." Similarly, the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA) website specifies a general shelf-life only for mascara, pointing out that "manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase," because of the potential for eye infections.  

Generally speaking, Canadian industry expert, Ivana Knezevic, a professor at Seneca College's Cosmetic Science program, says it's more important to read the labels and note any changes in a product's appearance and feel rather than relying strictly on internet-suggested replacement timelines — especially if the item hasn't been opened or used yet. While Knezevic advises that, ideally, "whatever products you start using, really try to use it up within a few months," she also mentions that throw-away guidelines may be anecdotal. 

Read the labels

In Canada, "shelf-life and expiry date are not required for cosmetic products," says Knezevic. "it is a responsibility of the manufacturer … to note if there is something specific and there is a shelf life" 

With the exception of products that can expire, unused products should last for several years! "In general, cosmetic products have a shelf life of three years," says Knezevic, noting that new products go through extensive stability testing. "If they are commercial products they have to be preserved," says Knezevic. "They would have to be preserved, and tested to show that the preservative is effective." This multi-year shelf life requirement even applies to natural and organic, unless their packaging notes otherwise. "It is up to the manufacturer to keep track of lot numbers; products older than that [should not be] sold."

But beauty products imported from Europe will often include a "best before" date for formulations expected to last less than 30 months, and a "period after opening" symbol when an item is "good to use more than 30 months," according to the Cosmetics Alliance Canada website. The latter counts the minimum time after a consumer starts using a product that it is expected to be "safe and effective as promoted and sold," says Knezevic. Unfortunately, beauty products made in Canada or imported from elsewhere other than Europe still aren't required to have this information marked on the packaging.   

Watch for changes

When you're using a beauty product, any "considerable change in consistency, smell or colour" or the appearance of a foreign growth such as mould can be obvious signs that it's gone bad. "When something is different about the product, definitely do not use it any longer," says Knezevic, noting that oils in products can oxidize and become rancid, and exposure to oxygen or higher temperatures can promote spoilage. 

The biggest concern with cosmetics and skincare is microbial contamination, according to Knezevic, which can cause irritation or infection and can't always be spotted. "It's not always obvious because it can demonstrate itself in different ways," says Knezevic. 

Consider the packaging, and storage

"The application, the packaging, the type of product, all of that matters [to product-life]," says Knezevic. A cream dispensed via airless pump, for example, will likely remain good longer than one in a jar that you're using your fingers to apply. Similarly, with mascara there's increased potential for contamination because the brush comes out, product is applied, and that same brush goes back into the tube. 

Ideally, beauty products should be stored in dry, cool conditions; you'll want to use up products stored in a bathroom more quickly. "Exposure to moisture, such as in a bathroom, may make it easier for bacteria and fungi to grow," notes the FDA. 

You can refrigerate any homemade beauty products, such as skin or hair masks, that don't contain any preservatives; at room temperature, microbes will proliferate rapidly, but Knezevic warns, "Even that will only prolong the shelf-life by maybe a few days or a week."

Use common sense, but err on the side of caution

"Typically, if [a product] has the same consistency and smell, feels the same, and it hasn't been five years, then it should be okay," says Knezevic. But just because a product is technically still safe to use doesn't mean that you should keep it around for that long. 

"It's just not a good practice to keep using something that you have applied on and off for a couple of years," says Knezevic. "If it's been sitting there for a year and you forgot about it, discard it. Not necessarily because it's gone bad, but because you just want a fresher product." 

Truc Nguyen is a Toronto-based writer, editor and stylist. Follow her at @trucnguyen.