The must-see beauty trends from the Fall/Winter 2020 runways

Against a backdrop of industry soul-searching and a number of coronavirus-related cancellations, the Fall/Winter 2020 show season nevertheless featured a number of breathtaking shows and introspective moments that highlighted the creative moments so unique to fashion week. 

In terms of beauty trends, many of the previous seasons' key ideas — individuality, variety and 'no-makeup' makeup, for example — remain as relevant as ever. But we also saw fresh updates on existing trends, great execution of classic looks, and some hair and makeup artists who pushed the envelope in interesting ways. After all, why shouldn't beauty be a creative outlet and opportunity for personal expression in these uncertain times? 

Here are the top beauty trends we spotted on the international runways for F/W 2020. 

Lady in red

A great red lip doesn't ever go out of style, but this season it was interesting to see all the slightly different ways that the same classic trend could be showcased. Elegant, matte reds with blue undertones were used at Jason Wu, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent and Erdem, while more youthful, orange-y lipsticks appeared at Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. 

Whichever red you opt for in pursuit of this trend, apply the colour on with a lip brush — precision and saturation are key with this high-glamour look. Unless, of course, you're looking to recreate the intentionally smeared, Debbie Harry-inspired red lip created by makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench for Junya Watanabe.

Crystal clear

If pearls were the must-have embellishment last season, well-placed crystals of all sizes and shapes might just be the beauty add-on of choice for F/W 2020. 

The "brows" at Christopher John Rogers were created by makeup artist Marcelo Gutierrez using MAC cosmetics and Swarovski crystals; hand-placed gems, including on nails, heads and arms, added allover sparkle at Baja East. Area featured roped-crystal headpieces and tops. Makeup guru Pat McGrath used black crystals to complement the liner-driven eye look at Valentino. 

Metallic bond

Fine, lightweight gold and silver leaf sheets added shine and texture to the beauty looks at Erdem, Preen and Simone Rocha this season. 

At Erdem, Nars makeup artist Lynsey Alexander gently applied art-store silver foil directly to a few models' eyelids with her fingers, placing the metallic pieces carefully on a dab of cream. Coloured foil was used similarly by Thomas de Kluyver for the Simone Rocha show, and Sam Bryant applied gold-leaf to models' foreheads and ears for an otherworldly effect at Preen.    

All gloss

The wet-hair look is not going anywhere. This trend continues through the F/W 2020 season — gelled and slicked-back styles appeared on the runways at Proenza Schouler, Alberta Ferretti, Valentino, Mugler and more. 

But for fall, there was also a noticeable uptick in tied-back ponytails and buns featuring highly glossed tresses at shows like Roland Mouret, Olivier Theyskens, Sacai, Emilia Wickstead and Balenciaga. The key to trying this look IRL? Don't be afraid to use plenty of gel.

Think orange

There were lots of neutral, barely-there eyelids this season; but we also spotted a few bright orange eyes on the runways at Monse, Self Portrait, Collina Strada and Maison Margiela. (There were also orange foreheads at Dion Lee.) 

To try the trend at home, look for an orange that's almost neon-colour, and has a bit of gloss built in — you can use it solo, or in combination with other bright hues. You may want to keep the rest of your beauty look pretty minimal.  

Cover up

There was a noticeably high number of shows featuring face-covering or face-obscuring accessories this season. British designer Richard Quinn and French talent Marine Serre have both been working with masks and head coverings for a few seasons now, but for F/W 2020 we spotted similar accoutrements on the runways at Maison Margiela and Christian Cowan, too.   

For a less dramatic, and decidedly more wearable take on the face-shielding trend, you could always try adding a romantic tulle or net veil to your next evening look (see: Rodarte, Christopher John Rogers, Brock Collection, Elie Saab, Carolina Herrera and Giambattista Valli).

Truc Nguyen is a Toronto-based writer, editor and stylist. Follow her at @trucnguyen.