An artist's guide to falling in love with Lethbridge: Mysterious architecture and a Lynchian bar
Shanell Papp: 'The story of this place is complex, layered and ever changing just like the weather here'
Everyone knows about the art scenes in Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver — but what about Lethbridge, Sudbury or Victoria? In CBC Arts's new series "I He(art) My City," a local artist offers an insider's guide to the city they call home. Here, crocheter and visual artist Shanell Papp shows you her Lethbridge.
Welcome to Lethbridge on Treaty 7 land and known to the Blackfoot as Aksaysim ("steep banks"), Mek-kio-towaghs ("painted rock"), Assini-etomochi ("where we slaughtered the Cree") and Sik-ooh-kotok ("coal") and Coal Banks to the early settlers. The city was renamed in 1885 after William Lethbridge, a bank financier from England who never saw his namesake city.
The story of this place is complex, layered and ever changing just like the weather here. Chinooks (warm winds) over the Rocky Mountains eat the snow and also push in heavy snowfalls. The weather is mirrored in the mercurial character of local personalities. The community discourse is continuous and passionate.
Many people here work on many projects. It is not uncommon to meet people working multiple paying jobs and having intense extracurricular passions — anywhere from arts to sports, cooking and brewing to fishing and hunting, local politics to fashion. It's a city where you can find virtually anything.
These are the local places I visit for interesting conversations and community experiences!
Art galleries
Casa - Paid make-work spaces for ceramics, woodshop, printmaking, photography and textiles. They offer classes and are a community/production centre for all artists. The access to tools and assistance is invaluable.
Southern Alberta Art Gallery - Art gallery for contemporary art from across Canada and beyond. These are the fun openings to go to! You can catch up with friends and discuss the art.
University of Lethbridge Art Gallery - Two gallery spaces that host curated shows from contemporary artists and work from the large art collection. The University of Lethbridge - Art Now series hosts 1-4 visiting artist talks every week.
Trianon Gallery - this space is not publicly funded, but architect John Savill will allow anyone to use the large gallery space.
Trap\door - An artist-run centre with no fixed location. They host an annual artist in residence at the Gushul studio in Blairmore and organize local art events, openings, speakers and interesting fundraisers.
McNally Community Centre - A former school that now operates as collective studio spaces for artists. They host open houses and the spaces are beautiful.
Architecture
High Level Bridge - Lethbridge is built around a deep river valley of rolling hills. We call them the coulees, which means "to flow." Crossing the valley is a giant trestle bridge. It has gorgeous geometry and simplicity.
Water Tower Bar and Grill - The giant green water tower in the city was repurposed into a restaurant. It looks like a giant barbecue and a giant spider.
University of Lethbridge - This UHall building is the most impressive building on campus — it looks like a monolithic cement ship cutting into the coulees. It has the heavy seriousness all brutalist buildings have. One persistent rumour is that it was designed to be a prison, but it's a baseless rumour.
Rust Rock Cathedral - A mysterious construction in the river bottom built with found objects: bikes, doll parts and wire like a dam of human garbage. There are many rumours and not much is actually known about the spot. I think the mystery makes it interesting. Some think it contains an evil power, some think it's an art project and some think it's an environmental statement.
Mining ruins in Hardieville - On the northern edge of the city is Hardieville, a small former mining community. Here there are old cement walls left from the mining operations. I never knew it as a mine, but I knew it as a party spot where the teenagers set fires, listened to music and acted wild. It seemed like a place of great mystery. The city now has some plans to renovate the site; I hope they don't remove the graffiti, but they most likely will. Sadly, "local history" doesn't include some kid's graffiti from 1998.
Best nature and walking/biking spots
7th Ave South/Bike Boulevard - Newer addition to urban transportation. It has slowed car traffic and allows cyclists to travel safer. It's a great place to get people used to urban cycling with gorgeous trees, beautiful houses and an easy route to the Henderson Lake and downtown.
Henderson Lake - The lake is a good place to take a walk, bring a dog, bring kids and have lunch with friends and family. It's close to the farmers market, fairgrounds and even a well-used skatepark! Plus, there are gorgeous trees.
Indian Battle Park - The name of the park comes from a bloody battle between the Cree and the Blackfoot at this location, where whiskey trading happened at Fort Whoop-up and coal was mined. The river bottom has a system of trails and trees.
Shops
Cuppers - Coffee heaven. Get a cup and buy grounds or any tool you might need. They also roast the beans on site, and the staff members are very knowledgeable and helpful.
Umami - A specialty food store that has unique items and will also teach you how to cook with them. This is a welcome food haven among all the convenience food services. Last summer they hosted a series of cooking shows on Facebook Live. They also have a cafe with food and coffee. Very social and super friendly.
Street Legal Records - They sell records, CDs and DVDs and host small art exhibitions/concerts. The space is small, but the art shows and concerts they host are great.
Pubs
The Owl - The bar hosts family jams, library trivia...and a bunch of things. They also carry the work of local visual artists, whose pieces can be purchased there.
The Slice - Local bar with live music. I used to go nearly every weekend. If you're looking for a bar experience that feels like a David Lynch movie, this is your place. It feels like someone could start a knife throwing or dirty dancing competition.
Coffee shops
Penny - The local standard. I get the Americano, brownie/tart and sometimes soup or wrap. You will typically run into 3-4 people you know and have quick chats — it's great.
Bread Milk and Honey - A newer place. I get the Americano and Round Street Greek salad. This is my favourite place to knit and draw.
Additional local arts essentials and events:
- Love and Records (gigantic vinyl record sale and music festival)
- Pride (fun fact: last year I designed/built the stage decorations for the party in the park!)
- FLIP Fest (art festival focused on featuring women and gender non-conforming artists)
- Girls Rock Camp (one-week music camp for girls)
Check back every week as we add new guides!
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